A genuine French brasserie straight out of the brothers Galvin mould, this egalitarian eatery on the ground floor of the extravagantly restored Caledonian Hotel takes its cue from Chris and Jeff Galvin’s London big-hitter Galvin Brasserie de Luxe – in other words, it’s a very different prospect to the ultra-posh Pompadour by Galvin upstairs. Instead of palatial pomp, it promises a series of buzzy interconnecting rooms with much attention focusing on the centrepiece seafood counter. You can pitch up here for oysters and crustacea or sit down for honest-to-goodness French bistro food done with the Galvins' brio and sense of occasion. Prime Scottish ingredients get a good outing, from Berwick crab mayonnaise or Scrabster cod with artichoke barigoule to a trio of Perthshire pork with pommes Anna, cauliflower and heritage carrots. To conclude, keep it fabulously French with peach Melba, tarte Tatin or raspberry soufflé with raspberry sorbet. Service is impressively on point, children are more than welcome, and the wine list is a corker, with terrific bottles at every turn.