Fork Lewes

Brighton’s sleepy sister of a town, Lewes, is a charming place to wander around for the day but until recently its dining scene has been lacking a certain something. That is, until Fork arrived. This small, organic-feeling independent restaurant comes complete with Scandi-style interiors, a menu filled with local produce and lovely staff, making it the perfect place for nice meal out.

Fork is run by two friends who hail from Clapham Common’s The Dairy and have relocated to Lewes as head chef and general manager. The team have looked to the surrounding areas of the South Downs for inspiration when it comes to the menu and setting, for example, the drinks list features a ‘Sussex Negroni’ which swaps the usual Italian Campari for a similar liqueur, Amaro, which is made by a couple from Hove.

Food wise, we started with the pork terrine which comes with a zingy pea sauce. The lively, garden flavours mixed with the terrine’s richness and moreish texture makes it an instant classic. While the smoky, soft aubergine with creamy ricotta and crispy, burnt crudités is another brilliant starter option – especially as it’s topped with edible flowers (making for an Instagram win).

Main dishes change regularly (as is the way with a menu made up of fresh, local produce), but whatever you choose make sure you order a side of young leeks with sticky, nutty praline topping. The balance of crunchy, fresh greens with such an indulgent sauce will have you thinking, ‘why hasn’t someone done this before?’.

The restaurant is small so booking is essential - they’re typically booked out two months in advance - although there is some space for walk-ins. Its intimacy suits the home-grown, neighbourhood vibe and complements the natural aesthetic. The interiors focus on raw textures such as woven chair seats, wood panelled walls and cork vases filled with earthy-toned dried flowers. The open kitchen, which runs alongside a set of bar stools, brings some personality and an interactive feel. For Lewes locals this is most certainly the place to be.

With so many top-class restaurants in nearby Brighton, it would be easy to skip past Lewes in search of a big name by the beach. Now though Lewes has its own culinary credentials, its own eatery worth making a pitstop for.

Fork is a family run restaurant underpinned by some solid credentials. All food and drinks are made on site from local and seasonal ingredients, and menus flex throughout the year to represent the very best of each month. This also means no two visits to Fork will ever be the same, allowing you the indulgence of revisiting an old favourite without it becoming too samey.

Found within a Grad-II listed Georgian former shop, the spec has been designed by Reafe Studio and reflects the company’s thoughtful interiors work. Here you’ll find that translating into smart wooden clad walls and chic black counter seating. Across the room there is also a line of simple, light tables and scoop backed chairs. Feature lighting and a striking red floor complete the picture for a space that has enduring contemporary design with a classic edge.

Fork serves both lunch and dinner, with different menus crafted for each. At lunchtime you might find homemade sausage rolls or sandwiches. Fillings aren’t your typical egg and cress either, think flank steak with salsa verde and smoked bone marrow on toasted milk bread (and all for little more than a Pret would set you back).

In the evening you can expect a succinct line-up of ‘best in season’. Here you might find courgettes with peas, broad beans, and smoked potatoes in a dressing of tahini and warmed spices, or brill roasted over coals with sorrel and cabbage. Puddings see classic combos – like strawberries with whipped yoghurt.