Fordwich Arms

Officially the smallest town in Britain administered by a council, sleepy Fordwich (not far from Canterbury) got a wake-up call when a chef and sommelier from London’s Michelin-starred The Clove Club took over their spit-and-sawdust local boozer. The building itself is ridiculously photogenic, a 1930s redbrick classic with a dreamy setting next to the river Stour, and the pub still has its trademark fixtures (roaring fires, panelling, local ales on the handpumps). But while the location is pretty as a picture, these days it’s all about the food.

Taking The Sportsman at Seasalter as its blueprint, the Fordwich Arms offers inspired upscale food in seriously unfussy, easy-going surroundings – no fawning waiters or horrendous bills here. Instead, whizz-kid chef Dan Smith and co serve up obsessively local ingredients in clever combinations with no holds barred: hay-smoked confit trout with courgette, spiced butter and horseradish; roast lamb with black garlic, morels and crisp potato; ‘hen of the woods’ mushrooms with pickled walnuts, hispi cabbage and chickpea pannise; Fordwich ‘Snickers’.

There are home-cured meats, house pickles and rock oysters to nibble, while wine drinkers can pick from a nifty list courtesy of sommelier Guy Palmer Brown.

Prices, admittedly, are more restaurant than pub, but there’s a weekday set lunch menu offering three courses for £35. Really, though, this is no place to be abstemious, and we’d recommend going instead for the nine-course tasting menu for £95, with matched wines another £85; a vegetarian version is also available. If that sounds too formal, Sunday lunch brings roasts of middle white pork chop, rack of Black Faced lamb, rump of Hereford beef or roast Hereford cote de boeuf, with all the traditional trimmings.

“The quality is almost beyond compare”, enthuses one fan, while another chimes “this is a great place for a really special meal, with stunning food and amazing service.”  One to watch, we think.

By now it hardly feels like the Fordwich Arms requires any introduction at all, so magnetic has its draw been for keen foodies heading to the countryside on a pub pilgrimage. If you count yourself amongst the crowd, on arrival you’ll be met with a smart pub that balances just the right amount of authenticity with a good dose of plaudit worthy grub.

Chef patrons Daniel and Natasha Smith come to the pass with a wealth of experience. Daniel previously worked under Jason Atherton and at The Clove Club in London, while Natasha’s experience includes time at Michelin starred Chapter One in Kent, as well as heading up the pastry team for a prestigious capital-based catering company. Together, the pair have worked tirelessly to create a welcoming, hospitable vibe that not only offers diners a cosy, friendly place to relax and recuperate, but also delivers some of the best food in the area.

Unusually for a pub, there’s a tasting menu option which gives diners a unique insight into the full capability of the kitchen. With six courses plus snacks, bread and petit four, it’s not for the faint of heart, but if you come hungry, you’ll be well rewarded for your £110 investment. Starters might include a raw Orkney scallop with apple, coriander, and a jalapeno smoked butter, while mains bring dishes such as roast venison with braised shoulder, cep, kale, and quince. Pescatarian, vegetarian and vegan tasting menus are all available too.

Should you prefer, there’s also an a la carte which allows for you to create your own perfect menu from a short but sharp billing of the biggest hitters. Here you’ll find some of the same dishes that are on the tasting menu, plus sweets like the Kentish honey tart served with a crème fraiche parfait, orange marmalade and honey cream.