Things appear to have settled in comfortably at the ultra-smart Feversham Arms in Helmsley, following some judicious cosmetic improvements. The conservatory dining room has been given a subtle restyling with carpets replacing tiles and giant lamps adding a contemporary look, while slick and professional service lends any occasion a friendly veneer. The cooking is similarly balanced, resisting unnecessary frills and keeping the focus on top-notch ingredients. Simple yet successful starters might range from summer pea velouté with crab to mackerel teamed with clams, wild asparagus and nasturtium flowers, while mains could feature sea bass with smoked gnocchi. After that, a deconstructed mango cheesecake looks good, though the cheese trolley is a highly recommended alternative. Make the most of the knowledgeable front-of-house team, who are happy to proffer informed wine suggestions.