A true neighbourhood joint that takes no reservations and has a strict no-laptop policy on certain days, Esters aims to bring a refreshingly unpretentious and eco-friendly vibe to the well-trodden path that is Church Street, Stoke Newington.
There’s an impressive range of baked goods on sale here, and you can choose from familiar and comforting staples like cheese toasties, or showstoppers designed to cater to an Instagram crowd like the miso white chocolate cookie, as well as inventive flavour combinations like the cheddar, pea, and jalapeno scone.
Also on the menu are some well-executed breakfast classics with some unusual ingredient combinations to keep things interesting, such as French toast with peanut crunch, lemon ricotta, kumquat, and blood orange (this is just at the time of writing, since the French toast toppings change seasonally), and fried eggs with rainbow chard, romesco, spiced almonds, and cured salmon.
In a climate in which the term ‘neighbourhood restaurant’ is something of a cliche, Esters seems to have a genuine commitment to building a cafe for the local neighbourhood. Their website contains a wealth of information on avoiding long queues at the cafe (given the no-reservation policy) written in a tone of earnest helpfulness, and the cafe invites local producers and DJs to create and submit music reflecting Esters’ ‘changing dynamic throughout the day’.
At the intersection of Esters’ interesting menu and their neighbourhood vibe is their commitment to high-quality local produce - the team uses a range of independent suppliers in London and around the UK including, among others, Has Bean Coffee, Postcard Teas, Northiam Dairy, and Little Bread Pedlar. In case that wasn't quite local enough, there's also a herb garden out back used by the kitchen team.