Elis

Rafael Cagali’s second restaurant is a much more casual affair than the lauded Da Terra, but being part of the marvellous Town Hall Hotel, it still has a certain degree of style. Is there substance at Elis too? To answer that question, first you have to find it. ‘Upstairs on the right,’ we’re told. In practice that means upstairs, turn right, head through a series of doors, corridors and intergalactic wormholes, before emerging on the far side of the hotel. Or head to the Patriot Square entrance instead - you’ll be right there.

The restaurant retains some decor from previous occupant The Corner Room, including a fetching arrangement of mismatched pendant lamps which still hangs from the ceiling. The restaurant has been smartened up a little with some gold accents, a lovely wine station in the middle of the room, and a brightly-patterned banquette on the far wall. Snow white tiles and a baby blue paint job bring a bit of cheer to the room, as does the extremely friendly service.

Though the menu is Cagali’s, Elis is not Da Terra-lite - this is more easy-going food inspired by the chef’s Italian and Brazilian heritage. The menu combines Italian and Brazilian dishes, given a signature twist by Cagali; panzanella salad and porchetta tonnata sit alongside salt cod bolinhos (a Brazilian beignet of sorts), and pecorino churros. Our pick of the small plates was a colourful plate of Arctic charr crudo, brought to life by sharp grapefruit and tucupi dressing. Truthfully though, everything is very good, and made better by an expert wine list devised by Noble Rot’s Dan Keeling and Mark Andrew.

There’s lots of room to mix-and-match, with a handful of pasta dishes as well as main courses on the menu. Short rib pappardelle is always popular and it’s delicious here, and there’s a cracking monkfish tail, glazed with black tucupi and served on a bed of haricot beans. As our spoon glides through a light, airy matcha tiramisu, though, we’re still struggling to work out quite what the identity of the restaurant is. Everything is individually very tasty, but it feels a touch disjointed when you bring it together. Still, it’s early days yet - we reckon that with a chef of Cagali’s quality at the helm, Elis will establish itself as a very fine restaurant.

Two Michelin-starred chef Rafael Cagali is branching out from his success at Da Terra with a second restaurant, also set within the historic Bethnal Green Town Hall Hotel, taking over from what was The Corner Room. Elis is a heart-warming tribute to Rafael's mother, whose first restaurant and jazz bar in Sao Paulo was named after the famous Brazilian musician, Elis Regina. 

With bespoke design elements in collaboration with Studio Nathan Miller, diners can expect an elegant but engaging space to experience the tastes and interpretation of Rafael's unique Brazilian-Italian heritage. Seating only 30 people, this dining spot promises to be an intimate and engaging gastronomic experience. 

The menu is more relaxed than Da Terra, allowing a peek into Cagali's personal journey as a chef from his roots in Sao Paulo, to working in Italy, Spain and now, London. The a la carte menu draws on rustic, childhood memories of Rafael's favourite childhood street food and family dishes, albeit with his signature playful touch.

Starting off with a selection of snacks, Cagali riffs on classic bites like vitello tonnato, cod fritters, gnocco fritto with Parmesan and speck, and Churros made with pecorino cheese. Diners will then get a choice of pasta dishes, including crab tagliolini verde as well as some larger main dishes to share. Seafood-lovers may opt for the baby monkfish tail sharer that's glazed in black tucupi; but if fish isn't your thing, there's also a pork chop, complete with black beans and an authentic chimichurri.

The Noble Rot team, meanwhile, are heading up wine duties, with a list that features only 10-12 bottles at any given time, with 5-6 wines served by the glass. By the sounds of all that, we're sure that Elis will do Rafael's mother proud. 

Image credit: Arianna Ruth