It’s long been a safe bet that you’ll find a good meal in Carnaby Street’s Kingly Court, and now that bet is made safer still by the presence of Club Mexicana, a casual - and entirely vegan - eaterie located on the first floor. Trust us when we say you absolutely cannot miss it, because the exterior is painted in a shade of arrestingly vibrant magenta. Inside, space is tight, but the likes of disco ball plant pots and neon signage keep the party vibes going - along with the fact that we kicked off our meal with frozen margaritas from the churning slushie machines on the counter.
Our advice would be to skip the nachos - the portion size is huge, and while the crunchy pickled veg added a welcome punch of flavour, if we’re honest, this reviewer has yet to be entirely convinced by vegan cheese in these quantities. Instead save space for the tacos, because it’s worth trying to sample as many as possible.
The standout is the succulent bbq short ‘rib’ taco - cleverly glazed and impressively textured jackfruit punctuated with pico de gallo, pink onions, salsa verde and pickled jalapeños. But a worthy silver medal goes to the diced ‘chorizo’ and sweet potato taco, the spiciest option in the line-up, albeit balanced with smoky, creamy chipotle mayo.
If it’s truly filthy vegan junk food you’re craving, head directly to the fried chick’n or cheeseburger tacos. And for a dedicated Mexican outlet that doesn’t even really need to include them on the menu, the fries are a revelation - crisp, fluffy and seasoned to perfection.
It’s worth noting that any of these taco fillings can also be ordered as rice-filled burritos or bowls, with optional beans or guacamole - generous, hearty meals that come in under the £10 mark.
Is Club Mexicana likely to disrupt London’s entire Mexican food scene? Perhaps not, but it’s certainly disrupting the vegan one. For a quick and delightfully dirty, well-priced plant based option that will please a crowd with almost any dietary requirement, we fully endorse its charms.