Manchester’s most glamorous in-store restaurant runs independently of its home in the Kendals department store, with a separate entrance & a buzz that’s all its own. Greeted by a bounteous display of fruit, veg, bread & pasta, first-time customers might be expecting something rustic but apart from the service (which can be gruff & charmless), Cicchetti is super-sleek. Amid brass rails, marble & leather, closely-packed tables are laden with the restaurant’s signature small plates; steak tartare made at the table, lentils with basil & burrata, pasta with meatballs, marinated vegetables & filled flatbreads are all shared, although full-size dishes are served, too. Staff will assist in wine-list navigation, although with so many flavours at play, a Peroni might do the job.