Chameleon

Anything that describes itself as a multi-experiential space could be enough to make a prospective diner feel uneasy. What does that even mean? In the case of Chameleon, a Tel Aviv-inspired restaurant located at the foot of Neo-Classical church One Marylebone, it involves a whole lot of fun.  

We visited during the winter season, where the only dining option is to book one of its nine heated greenhouses (the alfresco ‘God’s Garden’ closes during the colder months). Well-versed staff met us at the entrance to guide us to our glass-walled mini venue, where hanging flowers drooped over a garden bench-style table. So far, so experiential.  

We glossed over (in awe) the lengthy wine list, of which there are over 30 varieties each of reds and whites. One of their signature cocktails, Hibiscus Royale, was an alarmingly pink yet not-too-sweet tipple blending gin, hibiscus and prosecco. Delightful. 

The menu encourages a sharing style of dining with a menu comprised mainly of small and large plates. The house-baked Jerusalem bagel arrived with separate elements of creamy tahini and sweet harissa (stir to mix) while a bulbous, still-warm brioche loaf was served with zhug, green chilli, crème fraiche and crushed tomato for a creamy yet refreshing contrast. Just as moreish was the aubergine carpaccio, a pretty splurge of velvety aubergine, little blobs of tahini, crispy onions, goat’s cheese and pistachio.  

Nearly every dish we tried at Chameleon was imbued with flame-induced smokiness to impart next-level depth to vegetable dishes. Elsewhere, chargrilled cauliflower with creamy lentils and cucumber gazpacho showed just what the chef team can do with plant-based ingredients, while a crisp-skinned sea bass fillet was the underdog on a plate where roasted squash, celeriac puree and tahini (again) played starring roles.  

Plates average between £16-30 each, which one might feel short-changed by if you don’t choose your dishes correctly. Our advice? Get the bread (with dips), vegetables are your friend and do try the chocolate cremeux dessert if you can. The coffee cardamom ice cream is something else.  

Billed as a ‘multi-experiential’ space, Chameleon is a London venue which finds its home in the dramatic surrounds of the Grade I listed One Marylebone, a former church designed by Sir John Soane. As far as multi-faceted venues go, Chameleon surely takes the biscuit. The space, and bear with us here, comprises an alfresco restaurant, private dining greenhouses, a makeshift fitness studio, an art gallery and a live music area within the main church which features multi-sensory elements and 3D visuals.

If you are confused by all of the fluff, we will strive to keep things simple by explaining more about the restaurant itself. Chameleon’s ‘dining room’ in fact consists of an alfresco garden lounge, plus nine individually styled greenhouses, which can seat parties ranging from small groups of four up to larger groups of 30 for a semi-private dining experience. The design element of the greenhouses evolves with the seasons, so expect botanically inspired interiors during spring, replaced by tropical and beachy vibes in the summer months.

The kitchen here is led by Israeli chef Elior Balbul, who oversees a menu of Tel Avivian sharing plates. On the menu, expect to find dishes such as Yemen brioche challah, deconstructed falafel and aubergine carpaccio. For meat and fish lovers meanwhile, there is shrimp shish Barak, Morrocan octopus and charcoal-grilled lamb sirloin with cabbage gratin. To help wash it all down, pair your meal with signature Chameleon cocktail The Rimon, a freshly squeezed pomegranate Margarita with a twist.

On warmer nights, guests can make use of the alfresco lounge, coined ‘God’s Garden’. The space on the west side of the building’s exterior is a flower market curated by Jason Poole & Alexandra Watson, split between casual lounge seating and dining tables and serving a menu of cocktails and mezze plates designed by chef Balbul.