Cavita

A world away from the blur of city life outside, Cavita’s neutral tones and natural textures have the restorative effect of a cool drink on a hot day. While the interiors might do the figurative thirst-quenching, the house watermelon margaritas kick things off nicely in a literal sense. Not too sweet and not too strong, they help introduce you to the welcome pace of Mexican life.

As is often the case, the small plates are where most of the magic happens, and they come in a glorious avalanche of colour and texture. A plate of fatty tuna belly sliced generously and delicately laid on crispy tostada rounds immediately hits with its bright, citrus notes and salty twang while tacos wrap crispy battered white fish in soft corn shells for that sweet spot of sharp contrasted crunch with the earthiness of the grain and a funky fermented cabbage. A pig’s head tamal is a mushy comfort food mess of masa and slow cooked meat.

Sharing mains are the obvious star of the show and nicely represent Mexico City born chef Adriana Cavita’ desire to create a familiar environment. Served family-style, barbecued fish or meat comes with wraps, sauces and sides and platters are big enough for a few greedy people to share. While our chicken is perfectly cooked, it feels like there’s a hesitancy with the spice that might be aligned with the perceived wants of a Marylebone clientele. Luckily sweet staff are on hand with extra hot sauce for those looking for a kick of the good stuff, but next time we'd stick to piles more of the small plates and streefood snacks. Also, an added bonus is that actually, given the postcode and the level of skill on show here, prices aren’t as spicy as you might think.

All in, it’s quite a feat to have managed to create a homely environment in the heart of Mayfair. One that is simultaneously relaxed and refined, with food that is so obviously made to make guests feel comforted and cared for. 

There was once a time when authentic Mexican food hard to find within the surrounds of the M25, but we’re pleased to report that times are changing, and now London boasts plenty of choice when it comes to Mexican restaurants.

Joining the ranks of said spots is Cavita, chef Adriana Cavita’s (previously Peyotito in London and Ibiza) first solo venture and a place to enjoy home-style cooking. Having learnt to appreciate the simplicity of cooking over coals from her grandma, who sold Antojitos from a roadside stall in Ixtapaluca, Cavita’s menu has a street food focus. On the menu you’ll find classic tacos filled with baja fish, cochinita pibil or meat ‘al pastor’. However, if you’re feeling more adventurous there are plenty of more unusual dishes to try too. Tetelas are little triangles or corn masa filled with blue corn and roasted pink fur potatoes, for instance.

Larger plates centre around various moles – or sauces – which are integral to traditional Mexican cuisine. Here you’ll find smoky chargrilled chicken with a fresh, herby verde mole and tomatillo and roasted poblano as well as a dish called Carne a las brasas - a dry aged bone-in ribeye with an amarillito mole of Guajillo chilli and mixed spices from Oaxaca. For pure decadence don’t skip the Puerto Nuevo dish, a crispy fried half lobster with a garlic and chilli ajillo sauce, an avocado and tomato salsa and black beans.

Interiors have been designed to make guests feel transported to sunnier shores, showing off the textures of Mexico. Expect a warm, earthy palatte and plenty of green coming from cacti and succulents. The best seat in the house is at the ‘top table’, a communal dining space with views of the kitchen where you’ll be served by Cavita herself.

If you’re looking to make an evening out of your experience at Cavita, Kick the night off in the dedicated Mezcal bar downstairs. Mayahuel offers signature cocktails and snacking plates and can be found in the basement.