Old hands may pine for the cramped little deli/café that launched the Casa Mia phenomenon, and maybe a little of the soul in the food has been lost along the way, but this growing empire is undeniably impressive. The flagship Casa Mia Millennium is a shiny, split-level trattoria occupying a prime site in the Electric Press building on Millennium Square. A big glass frontage and colourful lighting lure in the crowds for a mixed Italian menu that moves competently through a popular assortment of pizzas and pastas to more showy char-grilled meat and fish dishes.