Another restaurant to join the new-wave French bistro revolution in London, Camille, we believe, presides loftily above them all. Not in an arrogant way, by any means. This Parisian-inspired spot has swooped into Borough Market with a competent chef team (Clare Lattin and Tom Hill of Ducksoup) and a clearcut vision to create a perfect specimen of an old-timey bistro without batting an eyelid.
It’s impossible not to be charmed by the walnut-clad interiors of the cosy dining room. Vintage wooden stalls overlook the market in the front window, while tight-fitting tables squeezed between pillar box red columns offer cosy respite to sit with a glass of wine and a plate of its addictive puffed pigs' skin crackers.
On that, this is not the place to come as a vegetarian, or anyone remotely squeamish for that matter. Camille’s menu favours lesser-known cuts that, at first, sound scary, but are anything but when placed in the talented hands of head chef Elliot Hashtroudi (ex-St John). Case in point: we chomped our way through a deeply comforting plate of chicken hearts with smooth, cheesy aligot and gravy. We’d wager the lamb’s brain was also delicious, but didn’t get round to testing that theory. Elsewhere, a ginormous schnitzel (one is enough for two) arrived swimming in a verdant dandelion and garlic butter, topped with perfectly dressed leaves. This we paired with oblong blocks of layered, deep-fried potato and Dijon mayonnaise, which though delicious, was potentially overkill. We were too high on butter-induced dopamine to care.
There hadn’t been any let-up on richness at this point, so we chose a small but perfectly formed dessert: a treacle-coloured canelé topped with a generous dollop of lemon curd. These two perfect bites are worth the fiver it’ll cost you. We weren’t drinking on the night, but wine is a big deal here, with an ever-changing glass list and a broader selection of natural bottles from French winemakers to choose from.
Camille has cracked the art of bistro-style dining. Allow it to woo you like it did us.