A busy, bustling dining room is never not a joy to behold, unless of course you’re on the outside looking in. Thankfully, at The Cameron Grill, we were comfortably seated at one of the central leather booths. With sublime views across Loch Lomond, this comfortable space in the heart of one of Scotland’s best spa hotels is a top shout for a comfort food feed.
The specialities are simple and rely on Scottish staples. A prettily plated starter offered perfectly cooked, sweet, hand-dived scallops on a puddle of smooth cauliflower pure with nice textural contrast from pickled florets and crispy pancetta. There was a good balance of sweet and salty with a level of sharpness from the pickles pulling back nicely from it all becoming a bit too rich.
Cheery staff in tartan waistcoats whisk you up in their enthusiasm for the ingredients they’re serving, making recommendations, and adding anecdotal detail to the menu. It’s not all food for carnivores though, there are the thoughtful aforementioned seafood plates plus plant-based options too.
An open-plan kitchen and walk-in wine cellar all add to the sense of fun and drama here, with tableside theatrics impart an element of interest to a sharing steak, which is sadly slightly clumsily carved and erring on the side of overdone. A minute too far perhaps, but the blushing centre is delicious and the crisp, fluffy-centred fries and creamy peppercorn sauce more than make amends for the slip-up.
Not to be outshone, dessert comes through in top spot to finish things off on a high. The satisfyingly angular slice of chocolate tart comes topped with a wave of smooth caramel on top and the whole thing tastes like a posh Twix. It’s the stuff of childhood dreams and doesn’t last more than thirty seconds on the plate.