Gone are the days when vegans were confined to salads and avo toast. Of course, there’s nothing wrong with those two things, but what a joy it is to see plant-based food inching into the mainstream, particularly when it arrives fully fledged in Somerset House as the cafe counterpart to Rishim Sachdeva’s Mayfair restaurant, Tendril. Let’s be clear, like Tendril, Cafe Petiole is ‘(mostly) vegan’ - and while you’ll notice the occasional addition of crumbled feta there’s no room for fake meat masquerading as an ethical substitute. Instead, Cafe Petiole is staying true to its roots - or, rather, its Petiole (the stalk that anchors leaf to stem).
Settling down on upcycled bentwood chairs, and admiring tastefully monogrammed blush pink tables, it’s easy to forget the concept is vegan. A creeping thought suggests the interior design team are secret colour psychologists. However, we could never attribute the joyful experience of a hard-to-believe-it’s-not-vegan silken tofu and courgette quiche to the congruity of magnolia yellows and powder blues. This triumph is the work of Tarryn Williams, head of pastry.
Focaccia sandwiches, seasonal filo rolls, and espresso chocolate cookies displayed under a chalkboard mirror are a smart move - well suited to the grab-and-go customer demographic.
But it’s the hot menu that captures our attention. Diving into an aromatic plate of creamy butterbeans with chilli garlic, we’re reminded of laid-back European cafes.
There are some hard hitters at play here. While the Tendril tiramisu was tempting, it’s a rich basque cheesecake cut with a zingy morello cherry compote that unceremoniously nabs the top spot. Accompanied by a supple natural wine with a distinctive orange peel finish, it's one to remember.
Not everything is so pristine. We notice the edges of the heritage tomato and basil galette are verging on singed. And yet, we’re left with the overwhelming impression that we’re splitting hairs - Cafe Petiole is finding its feet, but it’s a brilliant spot to pass an afternoon.