Hotel restaurants are infamous for their lack of atmosphere. At Boundary, however, this couldn’t be further from the truth. Entering the ground floor brasserie, we are greeted by throngs of chic clientele. This buzz is all the more impressive when you consider the neighbours: Smoking Goat, Brat and Dishoom.
It’s not clear why the cocktails are named after the deadly sins. But, when envy and sloth arrive, it’s hard to care. Envy is green with basil and kiwi, while sloth is a louche, cherry and Campari concoction. Both are exquisite, and we will likely return to sample the other five. Service is more informal than an old-school hotel, but still highly attentive and well-informed.
Steak tartare, a brasserie stalwart, seems a good place to start. As the sunset-orange yolk percolates through the glossy beef, it’s clear that there is talent in the kitchen. The meat is as fresh as can be, with a bold but measured kick of mustard. A brittle tranche of sourdough is on hand for shovelling, which we do with gusto.
The onglet, another brasserie staple, is tender enough, although sliced a little thick given the cut. Smoked bearnaise enhances things, as does a pile of crispy skin-on chips. Elsewhere, grilled Cornish cod is a far more delicate affair, crowned with pearls of roe and surrounded by a moat of beurre blanc. The fish is cooked perfectly, its flakes slipping from one another with ease.
The final string to Boundary’s bow comes in the form of a gloriously sticky pecan slice. The Earl Grey ice cream it came with, however, was so good that we had to fight the urge to raid the kitchen for a tub.
We left utterly satisfied and relaxed, having spent just under £50 on three courses. If anything, the name Boundary is misleading, since this is very much the epicentre of Shoreditch dining.