Lovely arched windows, bare wood tables, rattan seating & subdued tones give this elegant little gem of a place a tranquil, airy feel no matter how busy it gets. The good-value, excellent food draws the crowds, too, & the kitchen uses top-drawer raw materials imaginatively to create a straightforward, monthly changing menu of just three options per course at lunch (four at dinner). Starters might include an artily presented escabèche of sea bass with confit potatoes & ratatouille, while mains are flavourful but not too robust – roasted noisette of lamb with shepherd’s pie & confit onion, perhaps – leaving room for puds such as apple mousse with an apple shot & Calvados caramel.