With its vintage furniture, posters, exposed brick and stripped wooden floors, Bar Esteban fits into the Crouch End foodie scene like a long-lost friend. Pull up a seat at the bar beneath dangling legs of jamón or settle into the buzzy dining room while friendly staff deliver a perfectly pitched selection of tapas – from salt cod croquetas or prawns al ajillo to chipirones (fried baby squid) or chicharrones (nuggets of crispy pork belly). There’s plenty for veggies too, from fried aubergines with honey to sautéed spinach with raisins and pine nuts. Daily specials focus on well-sourced seafood (crunchy deep-fried eels, for example), with backing from top-notch cheese, charcuterie and an all-Spanish wine list that features 30-year-old sherries from the fabulous Fernando de Castilla range. Booking is advisable, though a few tables at the front are kept for walk-ins.