The only London outpost of Michelin-starred chef Cyril Lignac, Bar des Pres is a lesson in quiet luxury well-received by the affluent Mayfair clientele. Schooled in design nuance, it’s moody but never dark, sultry but not racy, and, most importantly, timeless without a hint of pomp or stuffiness. And yet, duality is written into the very fabric of Bar des Pres; it’s a melange of rich French dishes and clean Japanese plates. At the back of the narrow restaurant, a row of maneki-neko cats beckons us past the glistening bar towards a blue velvet booth. It’s a clever move, if a little off-kilter with the discrete minimalism of the space.
Fried sushi rice arrives dense and topped with chipotle mayonnaise and fat-streaked Scottish salmon. Initially satisfying, a few seconds later, the fish is cooked and flaking. It’s a blip. One that’s swiftly pasted over with a deft salmon tiradito laced in yuzu and laden with a vinegary totazu dashi gelee. The quality of the fish is to be relished, a fact highlighted by yellowtail California rolls packed with ‘pomme paille’ and topped with an invigorating hit of fresh jalapeno.
Lignac’s signature dish is a crunchy crab galette, spiced with Madras curry and topped with avocado, which has been sliced and fanned with millimetre precision. It’s subtle and velvety, with smartly contrasting textures and flavours.
We are told the langoustine ravioli in a frothy bisque is a regular favourite. It’s all that it should be, rich with shellfish flavours and delicate sweetness. Yet, baffled by the departure from fresh Japanese dishes, it comes as an alien intrusion - albeit a luxurious one. Desserts are under total French control. Ice cream profiteroles au craquelin are doused in a warm dark chocolate sauce, while a crispy pecan praline mille-feuille is brilliantly textured by faintly salty layers.
There’s a lot to enjoy here. The cooking is memorable, service is intuitive and professional, and the cocktails are masterful - a gin and elderflower ‘Belle Epoque’ is particularly good. But it’s frighteningly pricey, and the Franco-Japanese flavour flip-flop is jarring. That being said, as an exclusive spot for Japanese small plates and quality Champagne, Bar des Pres does pretty well.