Bagatelle

It might have a French name but this glitzy import’s heart is in New York's Meatpacking District, where the original restaurant is famous for its brunch parties; this London outpost joins existing Bagatelles in Dubai, Miami, Punta del Este and St Barthélemy (among others). Mayfair feels almost dowdy in comparison.  

Interiors are much as you’d expect from a restaurant group with such a luxurious heritage. Plush blue velvet booths line the room, intricate chandeliers hang from the ceiling and Damien Hirst artworks scale the walls. Needless to say, this is not somewhere to come in search of a cheap eat: there’s a seafood platter for £450 and a Methuselah of Dom Pérignon will set you back £80,000.

In other ways, though, Bagatelle doesn’t conform to expectations. Just take the (impossibly attractive) staff, who are sweet rather than snooty and very well-versed on the menu. We were also pleasantly surprised by the standard of the cooking – people might be coming here to party, but the food is far better than mere stomach-lining. 

The sharing menu kicks off with smaller dishes such as a quartet of tender Angus beef sliders, slathered with decadent toppings including sautéed foie gras and black truffle mayonnaise. Elsewhere are pillowy pellets of homemade gnocchi and a creamy helping of burrata pepped up with fresh tomato.

To follow, diners are encouraged to order one of the larger sharing dishes, which easily fed our party of four. The whole grilled lobster linguine (de-shelled and served at the table) was a decadent treat of seafood chunks and juicy tomatoes entwined in ribbons of soft pasta. Desserts are more low-key; we’d recommend the light-as-air raspberry mousse served with a scoop of pistachio ice cream.

If you want the full, over-the-top Bagatelle experience, it’s best to visit in the latter half of the week, when French-themed parties and raucous brunches are the order of the day. A Mayfair party palace this may be, but it’s one with more substance than you’d expect.

This international group of contemporary French restaurants was originally founded in New York, but now boasts locations in the glitzy likes of Miami, Los Angeles and St Tropez. Bagatelle is well known for attracting famous faces, and is geared towards a wealthy clientele, so it’s no surprise that the brand has chosen Mayfair for its first London site. As seems to be the trend with the burgeoning Mayfair restaurant scene Bagatelle promises diners an energetic and lively atmosphere complete with world renowned DJs and live performers to keep them entertained long into the night or throughout the day with their boozy brunch affairs.

Interiors are suitably opulent, with vibrant colours, plush fabrics and mood lighting throughout as well as some very unique furnishings and a striking brightly coloured marble effect ceiling. It’s a daring blend of classic and contemporary and lends to an atmosphere that’s fun and lively yet still sophisticated and elegant.

Chef Dale Osborne has made a painstaking effort to make sure the food at Bagatelle is equally as memorable as the setting it’s served in with a menu that combines French Mediterranean cusine with locally sourced ingredients. His impressive career has seen him work in many well regarded dining establishments across the globe and his wealth of experience is apparent in his unique culinary style.

Starters are light and include a selection of salads, tartares and crudos. Seafood platters are a popular choice and range in price and extravagance. For something warm to start the gnocchi a la Parisienne de Nicolas is an obvious choice with a decadent black truffle sauce and generous topping of aged Parmesan. Main courses comprise a concise but appealing selection of fish and meat dishes including seared scallops with celeriac and pear with a roasted walnut jus; and slow cooked veal osso buco with saffron risotto and gremolata. Alternatively the ‘To Share or Not to Share’ plates are a sociable option to dish up with the table. Options from this section include whole roast lobster linguine with datterini tomatoes and cream and a whole roast chicken with country style potatoes, woodland mushrooms, caramelized onions and a thyme and chicken jus.