Former MasterChef: The Professionals runner-up Tom Simmons appears to have landed on his feet with this eponymous debut, having previously worked under the likes of Mark Sargeant (Plum + Spilt Milk) and Tom Aikens (Tom’s Kitchen). Part of the One Tower Bridge development, the two-floor site serves up an all-day menu of traditional British and French dishes with some intriguing Welsh accents (note the whipped leek butter, the cockle popcorn with seaweed mayo and the regional cheeses). The intimate ground-floor bar dispenses on-trend sips such as passionfruit and elderflower Martinis, while the charming low-lit space upstairs benefits from a relaxing soundtrack and cosy decor. Starters might see wood pigeon with beetroot and blackberries or a creamy mushroom velouté, pepped up with chives and truffle cream, while our pick from the generous mains was the short-rib of beef, served as a hunk of tender, melt-in-the-mouth meat on smooth pomme purée with beef jus and a scattering of smoky bacon lardons – a filling and big-flavoured plateful. If you still have room, finish with a handful of cocoa-dusted salted caramel truffles. With its smiling service and prices that are justified by hearty portions, we think Tom Simmons is one to watch.