The Georgian at Harrods

It’s been more than 113 years since The Georgian opened. Now, thanks to a recent facelift by David Collins Studio, and the magical touch of the proclaimed ‘Pie King’ Calum Franklin, this Grade-II listed Art Deco restaurant on Harrods’ fourth floor has been restored to the golden glory of the Jazz Age. A glistening white piano is part of the package, as are mirrors in every corner, 25 twinkling chandeliers and coffered ceiling friezes.

Naturally, these are the aristocrats of the pie world, ferried on trolleys past mother-of-pearl accents and jewel-toned drapery to diners at velvet booths. Though tempted by versions with Atlantic lobster, chicken, and beef shin, The Georgian Pie Experience stands out. A serving to share, it arrives as a glistening lamb-filled vision sporting a gilded 'G' as a coat of arms.

It’s carved tableside and soon surrounded by plates of sweetbreads, tempura anchovies, and ratatouille. The latter needed another flash in the oven, but these are mere satellite plates; Franklin’s love for the craft is present in every strand of meat and crinkle of buttery pastry. No tepid dish could distract from the sweet steaming gravy mingling with slow-braised lamb shoulder.

Though The Georgian could easily survive on pies alone, it also offers pepped-up dishes from historic menus including a 1909 Diamond Jubilee consume, 1951 veal cutlets, and a 1965 smoked rabbit en croute. The rabbit is a triumph, featuring great hunks of Alsace bacon set in Marsala and matched by a glossy Cumberland sauce to cut the salt and smoke.

Not everything reaches such stratospheric heights. Although the menu reads triple cooked ‘roast potatoes’, in reality, it’s a single spud topped with garlic so crispy it’s more caustic than confit. Elsewhere, balance is understood brilliantly. Carlingford oysters, one poached, one chilled, are yin and yang personified. The first, doused in beurre noisette, is nutty and earthy, the other, fresh as anything and topped with sharp caviar-like beads of mignonette.

It might strike the pose of a swanky hotel dining room or a flash cruise ship ballroom, but there are a few wrinkles yet to feel the heat of an iron. And yet, the allure is undeniable. The Georgian has quite successfully repositioned itself on the precipice of a second Golden Age.

The Georgian has been serving lavish delicacies to London’s elite since 1911, showcasing some of the most luxurious takes on British cooking. Having undergone a recent makeover, The Georgian has entered its next era, while preserving Harrods’ rich heritage and status as a purveyor of quintessentially British luxury goods. In its newest chapter, The Georgian’s kitchen is headed up by Calum Franklin, formerly of Rosewood London’s Holborn Dining Room and Public House in Paris, and who is renowned for his ultra-refined approach to classic British cookery.

Recalling the roaring twenties, the time when the tea room first flourished, The Georgian’s makeover involved threading flashes of opulence throughout the space. Art deco original features have been maintained, illuminated by the 25 chandeliers gilding the ceiling. There’s also a live pianist, offering a jazzy soundtrack to the experience and all in-keeping with transporting guests to the height of the jazz age.

The afternoon tea menu is rooted in tradition, but is elevated by fabulous additions to old reliables. The amuse-bouche on offer is a classic recipe from 1960 - a tender slow-cooked short rib served with crispy potato and black-garlic caviar. ‘Savouries and sandwiches’ feature a Godminster cheddar and caramelised onion tart, a Faroe islands salmon sandwich, and a confit duck and orange marmalade sandwich, served on tomato bread. Sandwiches are far from simple here - a crispy treacle roast celeriac sandwich involves six-hour marinated celeriac, with tempura-style porcini, and served on Japanese milk bread. A tea sommelier accompanies afternoon tea, offering tailor-made blends.

The evening dinner menu brings snacks of Carlingford oysters and Oscietra caviar, followed by starters of smoked rabbit pate, Devonshire crab tart and a smoked-haddock Scotch egg. But the real star of the show comes with the pie selection. Chef Calum Franklin has garnered an international reputation for his inventive pies, packed with creative flair. This is showcased in the pie menu: take for example The Georgian Pie Experience - a slow-cooked shoulder of British lamb, encased in intricately decorated pastry, and served with ratatouille, anchovy tempura and sweetbreads, and served with a lamb consomme.