Roka is 20 years old in 2024, but it still feels like yesterday that we were swooning over the sleek, geometric lines of this timber-clad Japanese restaurant on Charlotte Street. If there’s one thing you can say about Roka, it certainly doesn’t look its age - the polished wood and glass aesthetic is still very much in, and Roka’s open kitchen theatre has influenced a generation of restaurants. Once the upstart, Roka’s space-age styling is now the status quo.
The menu has a handful of new anniversary hits, but everything still fits the same broad themes - elegant sushi, sashimi, tempura and robata grill skewers, all designed around speed, dynamism and big, bold flavours. Dishes at Roka are uniformly simple but delicious. Sometimes they’re so simple and delicious it almost feels like cheating: take scallops for example, roasted fiercely over the robata grill and served with a touch of wasabi and shiso. It would surely take a genius to make these not taste good. They’re so good we immediately order another plate.
The same is true of elaborate, precision-engineered maki rolls, perfectly crisp tempura and dainty snacks. Even Roka’s desserts, which could so easily be an afterthought, are excellent - we especially enjoyed a pleasing baked cheesecake with guava black sesame crumble.
As you’d expect, the wine list features top vintages from big names, but it’s well worth sampling some saké from the extensive selection – although imbibers should head downstairs to the Shochu Lounge for cocktails. Such quality doesn’t come cheap, though Roka’s special-occasion prices are matched by flawless service from a well-honed team of charming staff, while the buzzy vibe is equally suited to date nights and business meets.
Reserve a ringside seat at the sleek polished wood counter around the robata grill to properly experience the theatre, which lasts right through to the lavish dessert platters heaped with exotic fruit. Yes, eating here is a joy from beginning to end.