Dishoom Edinburgh

"Completely incredible food and service"; "reminds me of Mumbai"; "one of my favourite pop-in places" – readers simply can't get enough of Dishoom and its "wonder colonial decor". Whether it's a breakfast of bacon naans and chilli jam (with bottomless chai tea during the week) or dinner with "creative" Asian-themed cocktails such as the Bollybellini, this branch of the four-strong group delivers in spades. We're hooked on the keema pau (minced spiced lamb in a buttered bun) and the signature black dhal, but other items are well worth a punt – including the mahi (fish) tikka, the fried batura bread with chickpeas or the famous chicken berry Britannia (a biryani riff with cranberries), with kulfi on a stick to finish. The only problem is getting a table in the first place: bookings are only taken for groups of six or more, otherwise you need to queue. Even so, this is a "must-visit".

Arguably the most attractive of all the Dishoom locations with its quirky colonial décor complete with Bentwood chairs, leafy corners, mahogany bookcases and window seats overlooking St Andrew’s Square; Dishoom Edinburgh was the chain’s first outlet outside of London. The restaurant’s design and the artwork adorning the walls pay homage to Sir Patrick Geddes; a Scottish botanist and sociologist whose great work improving living conditions in the Scottish capital led him to found the department of Sociology & Civics at Bombay University in 1915. Now a firm favourite on the Edinburgh dining scene, the restaurant offers food and drinks inspired by the early Irani cafés that populated the streets of old Bombay.

Start with a tipple in the classy low-lit basement bar of this three-storey building. A Scottish special comes in the form of Horniman’s Old-Fashioned – a smoked oak-aged rum blended with pineapple syrup and bitters. Classics from the cocktail list include the Chai Paanch, East India Gimlet and Dishoom Espresso Martini but there are plenty of non-alcoholic options too with a list of Sharbats, Copy Tipples, lassis and coolers to pick from.

The food menu is every bit as exciting with a whole host of authentic Indian dishes from curries to salads and everything in between. Chef’s Edinburgh special is Salli Boti – a Parsi classic of tender lamb braised in a rich and flavoursome gravy and finished with crunchy salli crisp-chips. It comes served with a light and buttery roomali roti and can be ordered as a half or full plate depending on your appetite. Murgh Malai is a highlight for meat-eaters – chicken thighs marinated in garlic, ginger coriander and cream then flashed on the grill, and for vegetarians the house black daal is a much-loved signature.

As with the other sites, breakfast is a popular occasion at Dishoom and if you’re not looking to takeaway then booking is recommended. The bacon naan roll has earnt a worthy reputation but for something more intrepid try the Keema Per Eedu – chicken keema studded with delicate morsels of chicken liver, topped with two runny-yolked fried eggs and Sali crisp-chips, served with fluffy home-baked buns.