Formerly a school, York Minster Refectory profits from unrivalled views of its namesake Cathedral. Across from the iconic blonde spires that stretch towards the heavens, the squat Refectory building is cosy and charming in contrast thanks to low stone arches and floors worn wobbly by decades of many marching feet. It’s almost impossible not to get swept up in the romanticism of it all, wondering what history has unfolded here.
Its series of small linked rooms offer mesmerising views of the cathedral’s south side, and at dinnertime the soft candlelight makes shadows rise and fall in a melodic dance that feels fitting for a structure that started out life as a mecca for York’s young choristers.
An opening snack of plump, creamy oysters with Bloody Mary granita exemplifies how good classics with a twist can be: the ice cold dressing intensifies the natural shellfish sweetness for a bite that could convert even the most hesitant of crustacean doubters. Accessibly-priced British fizz from Hattingley Valley, with its gentle effervescence and intense fruitiness, works to set the tone for a restaurant that feels special but unpretentious.
In true Andrew Pern style, the menu envelops you in a big warm hug, where most dishes are enlivened via fat, butter or cream. Starters include a velvety chicken liver parfait with a mini tear and share bread rolled with jammy onions and flecks of crispy chicken skin. A bacon chop main arrives with a puddle of smoked butter mash and a side of peas, cabbage and lardons in a creamy sauce. The chop’s perfectly cooked with caramelised fat, but it is staggeringly salty, which managed to somewhat undo all the good work elsewhere on the plate. Another main was more successful though, with dripping potatoes and slow cooked lamb shoulder dutifully falling to pieces at the lightest touch. Playful desserts (like a Malteser chocolate tart) complete a meal of gutsy, well-loved flavours that you’d be hard pressed to dislike.
Helping things along in the upbeat atmosphere stakes are the sweet staff who seem proud of the experience the whole team is creating for guests, and there’s no denying it’s a lovely place to spend a few hours.