Yeni

You wouldn’t know it from looking through the big windows, but this small dining room, decorated in the standard Soho mufti of distressed walls, statement lights, colour-pop tiles and a central communal table, is an offshoot of one of the hottest restaurants in Istanbul, Yeni Lokanta. But the warmth of the welcome from the sweet young staff and a quick look at the menu (and prices) from star Turkish chef Civan Er makes it clear that, as its name promises – Yeni is the Turkish word for ‘new’ – we’re a long way from Green Lanes. 

The big break with trad Turkish is to have a menu drilled down to around a dozen dishes, with the idea that two people should share four starters and one main, though anyone as hungry as we were might want to add a second main – small portions are another thing that’s new about Yeni’s re-invention of the traditional Anatolian repertoire.

Cig kofte upgraded the usual raw beef meatballs to a full-blown steak tartare, the finely minced meat fragrant with herbs and topped with a deep-fried potato ball which split open to reveal a dribbling egg yolk. Pan-fried feta tweaked the familiar cheese-and-honey combo with the addition of hazelnut and samphire to produce a very satisfying dish of cream and crunch cut through by the iodine tang of the samphire.

Our main of roasted beef ribs, spiced with isot pepper and cumin and served on a bed of sourdough to soak up the slow-cooked meat juices, also impressed; only a mushy starter of olive-oil braised celeriac seemed lacklustre, although we appreciated the occasional tastebud-jolt of anchovies.

We liked nearly everything that we ate, but we felt that prices (for both food and wine) were hard to swallow given the homely surrounds and low-key vibe, not least if you were paying for the privilege of sitting elbow-to-elbow with strangers rather than at one of the smaller tables. But like the toffee-flavoured smoked butter served with toasted sourdough, Yeni does offer an eye-opening taste of modern Turkish cooking and injects a welcome dose of originality to Soho.

This restaurant is the brainchild of one of Turkey’s most critically acclaimed chefs. Civan Er, who is well known for his Istanbul restaurant Yeni Lokanta, has chosen to open this quasi spin-off on Soho’s Beak Street, replacing an old branch of wine bar Vinoteca. Oklava is set over two floors, and is a great laid-back, but highly sophisticated, spot that would be ideal for gathering with friends or family.

The restaurant’s logo features a group of aubergines shaped like a flower, and you’ll find them on the menu in dishes such as aubergine-stuffed manti with goat’s yoghurt. Elsewhere, you can try line-caught bass with raki and feta, or indulge with desserts such as salted caramel panna cotta with pumpkin. The Michelin guide has described Yeni as having “vibrant, gutsy, flavoursome dishes, techniques rooted in tradition, with dishes cooked over oak in the Josper oven”. Chef Civan Er showcases his take on modern Turkish cuisine, constantly changing the menu. His recipes are inspired by open fire cooking and he uses the finest British ingredients including cuts form organic Welsh lamb, line caught wild fish and fresh vegetables. 

As mentioned before, this restaurant would be a great place to visit with a larger group. Dinner groups larger than five are accommodated with a seven-course sharing menu, that also has vegetarian and pescatarian options available. There is also the option to have the express lunch, which is available for those dining up to four people.

Since the menu changes so frequently at this restaurant, it is advised for people to inform of any dietary requirements in advance, so that efficient preparation can be completed. In terms of reservations, the maximum party size is ten guests, and multiple table bookings for the same group cannot be honoured. It is possible to email, to enquire for a larger group.