This relaxed neighbourhood Italian is big on authenticity. The decor, however, is more Clapton than Calabria, with the industrial-chic vibe emphasised via distressed wooden tables and a cluster of low-hanging lights. The open kitchen is more traditional, turning out classic and affordable Italian comfort food (homemade pasta is a speciality). Fritto misto is a good start, the heaped mix of crispy king prawns and buttery whitebait served with a creamy tartar dipping sauce. Our only complaint is that the portion is too generous if you plan to follow with the star of the show: pizzas from the wood-burning oven, the perfectly crisp dough topped with the classic likes of mozzarella, capers and anchovies. We’d recommend the spicy Americana, loaded with smoky pepperoni and fresh chillies. S.Pellegrino lemonade provides a cool-down, and there are Italian wines by the glass. Service is a bit hit-and-miss, but there’s no denying that Venerdi does heart-warming food well, and it’s open all day, too.