Tillingham

Tillingham’s award-winning restaurant has got itself a new head chef, Brendan Eades, who brings his experience of sustainable gastronomy to this progressive, bio-dynamic vineyard with rooms in East Sussex. Much like its approach to winemaking, Tillingham's farm-to-plate food philosophy follows in the same eco-friendly vein, serving a menu focused solely around produce either grown in its kitchen garden or sourced from local suppliers.

In keeping with its all-natural ethos, the dining room boasts a rustic and homely aesthetic – not unlike a countrified canteen. It’s also atmospheric as hell. The lights are dimmed to barely aglow so that candles are relied on to do most of the legwork, while heavy chitchat and blaring music create an infectious buzz. Elsewhere, staff hop and skip between tables delivering glasses of wine at regular intervals, and a small team of chefs are visible preparing food from an open kitchen.

There is only one ever-changing ‘Garden Menu’ to minimise waste. Dishes aren’t showy and often only combine a handful of ingredients so as not to detract from the produce. There is very good focaccia, so good we ask for more, that’s slick with olive oil, crunchy with sea salt and pillow-soft within. A simple, striking dish of cold beetroot finds richness and texture with tangy goat’s cheese and puffed buckwheat. The high note of the meal is blushing lamb served with a viscose Szechuan and peppercorn sauce, which we’re told by our waiter begins reducing in the morning until its lip-smackingly intense by nightfall. Dishes are served at a leisurely pace so that we end up eating dessert – a smooth chocolate cremeux with a crisp sesame tuille - in the late hours of the evening.

A meal at Tillingham is not to be paired with anything other than one of its own wines. We thoroughly enjoyed a characterful Pinot Blanc which offered lots of salinity and texture on the palate. Offering high-quality food and drink without pomp, frills or cost to the planet, we could certainly all learn a thing or two from Tillingham.

Set amongst 70 acres of rolling hills and woodlands, Tillingham is quite a sight to behold. On a clear day you can see all the way across the Tillingham River valley, to the sea and the Romney salt marshes beyond. The views are marvellous, but fortunately, the rest of the offering at this renovated 13th century farm more than matches up.

Tillingham is hotel, restaurant and winery, home to vineyards, fruit trees, ancient woodland and livestock. Eleven rooms sit at the heart of the farm, in what was once a hop barn. The farm itself is still fully functioning, and the combination of progressive farming techniques and ancient traditions forms the backbone of the food and drink offering - Tillingham wines are available to taste by the glass in the purpose-built tasting room, and also in the restaurant. 

Speaking of the restaurant, Tillingham received a coveted Michelin Green Star in 2022 - a new annual award fom the guide that 'highlights restaurants at the forefront of the industry when it comes to their sustainable practices'. Tillingham grows much of it's own produce, and really focuses on sustainability and limiting food waste. Though the restaurant started off serving a set menu, Tillingham has transitioned over to an a la carte menu that showcases the best ingredients, cooked simply, either grown on the farm or sourced from the best producers in the local area. Try salsify, soft boiled egg and lardo to start, followed by braised squid, guanciale, chilli and chickpeas, or grilled beef onglet with January King cabbage and coolea.

There's also a very affordable lunch menu served on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, as well as wood-fired pizzas served daily and a casual wine bar where you can enjoy Tillingham's own wines.