Bridging the gap between country inn and local restaurant, this substantial brick and timber hostelry is an “excellent” addition to the drinking and dining scene in this gentrified part of the Chilterns. The kitchen sets out to please, and covers all bases from char-grilled, free-range steaks to veggie pasta dishes, with many ideas bolstered by produce from the pub’s own growing patch. Wild rabbit lasagne with mushroom essence, truffle mayo, garlic crumb and pickled shallots is a typically seasonal starter, while mains might run from braised beef cheek with a juniper and treacle glaze, caramelised parsnip purée, charred spring onion and smoked potato terrine to grilled lemon sole with saffron risotto and gremolata. To conclude, perhaps try Earl Grey and milk chocolate cremeux with salted caramel and hazelnut ice cream. Prices are fair, set menus offer decent value and there’s plenty of good drinking on the succinct Corney & Barrow wine list. The “casual” mood is helped along by staff who are “attentive but discreet”.