The Surprise Chelsea

While you can still find an old-fashioned boozer in the capital, the hierarchy of London free houses means that if award-winning interior design and an experimental menu is what you’re after, it’s not hard to come by. The Surprise, quite cleverly, manages to balance a bit of both.

The building has stood on a quiet, neighbourhood street hidden behind the King’s Road since the 1800s and it’s this leafy, local feel that keeps it grounded. While pictures show off the pink-striped awning and peachy paintjob, in reality the space doesn’t feel quaint or too cutesy. The beautiful design is helmed by Isabella Worsley who commissioned hand-painted floral murals and vintage artworks, but an authentic, wooden bar grounds the space and it’s here that groups gather and the TV comes on, with a familiar bustle, offering a happy compromise between the way things were, and the way they’re going.

Dinner bookings are catered for on the first-floor dining room, which is homely with book-lined walls and cottagey wallpaper, but elevated thanks to an interesting artwork collection and huge, period windows which offer classically London street views. Get cosy and peruse the seasonal menu which aims to spruce up modern British cuisine with a good selection of timely options. You could opt for Stokes Marsh Farm rib eye steak or chicken breast from the Creedy Carver. A traditional beer battered fish and chips with mushy peas and tartare sauce was excellent; flakes of soft cod, covered in just the right amount of crunch and the kind of chunky, golden chips you want to go on forever.

We were impressed by the drinks selection – these guys know how to shake a cocktail. Ask about the cocktail of the month or go for their take on an espresso martini which adds smooth rum and a hint of banana for a dessert-worthy after-dinner drink. Speaking of which, desserts are also seasonal, and we get the impression the chefs love having a little bit of fun with this part of the menu. The lemon posset was smooth and light, topped with a lavender shortbread which had a novel perfumed taste to break through the cream. All in all, if you want a rose-tinted London pub experience this is the perfect place.

Anyone who knows their London pubs, will know that there's been a lot of fuss over The Surprise since it opened in spring 2021. Helmed by Jack Greenall, of the Greenall Whitley brewing dynasty, the aim was to refresh the much-loved Chelsea instution, which has sat on the idyllic street behind the Kings Road since 1853.

The most instantly recognisable change is a considerable interiors spruce up thanks to designer Isabella Worsley, who is known for her soft, colourful, feminine take on heritage interiors. The Surprise is steeped in history, taking its name from HMS Surprise, the captured French corvette, and as a proper pub, Isabella was careful not to layer the concept in too much frill or fuss. Deep red leather bar stools and antique lighting, sit next to rose-tinted walls, striped blinds and floral-pattered armchairs for cosy, homely but stylish feel. While walls are decorated with hand-painted murals and an eclectic selection of artwork. 

As for the menu, modern British recipes and seasonal produce are the order of the day. While dishes change regularly, you might see snacks like roast garlic and aubergine hummus and flatbread alongside crispy cod bites with coriander dip. Starters could look like Puglian burrata and heirloom tomatoes with basil pesto, shallots and focaccia croutons, or chicken liver parfait with truffle butter and toasted brioche. 

For mains, get stuck into plates like seafood tagliatelle served with St. Austell’s mussels, Atlantic prawns, squid and langoustine bisque, as well as Wiltshire beef burger layered with baby gem lettuce, tomato, caramelised onion jam, house coleslaw and fries. Those with a sweet tooth might be interested to hear about the lemon posset with lavender shortbread or Williams pear and Valrhona chocolate trifle, with toasted almonds and vanilla sponge - nicely washed down with a glass of English sparkling.