Named after the first production at the theatre in 1976, The Rivals sees the Royal Exchange’s restaurant, bar and café fully redeveloped to embrace its dramatic location. Rupert Hill and Goska Langrish are established names in Manchester’s eating-out culture, and their new space is as welcoming as a heritage pub. Reclaimed doors and eclectic old furniture and chandeliers from the theatre’s props department add rustic elegance to the dining area. The menu is largely British, hearty and well-executed, with crowd-pleasing starters such as house-cured salmon with baby beets and horseradish or mustardy leek rarebit with crispy shallots on homemade toasted bread. Mains are generously portioned and well-balanced; we especially enjoyed meltingly tender braised feather-blade of beef served with creamy dauphinoise and rich meaty gravy. Desserts didn’t disappoint either, particularly a fruity blackberry posset with crumbly vanilla shortbread. A decent beer list and wines by the glass add to the conviviality.