The Restaurant at The Twenty Two

Another day, another new swanky hotel pops up in Mayfair and all is right with the world. We were intrigued by the restaurant at The Twenty Two, though, drawn in by photos of its beguilingly pretty dining room which looks like something out of a Disney fairytale. The reality, we can attest, lives up to the aforementioned photos. Sky blue panelled walls, a marble fireplace and black and white artworks are complemented by luxurious beige-toned armchair seating and a majestic gold framed mirror. It’s swoon-worthy, and we love it.  

The lights had been dimmed to a dusky glimmer on the evening of our visit, probably to divert attention to the warmly-lit bar backed by an impressive array of spirit bottles. We’d suggest popping in just to try one of its cocktails, which are very good and mixed together by a clearly knowledgeable team of white suit-clad mixologists. Our choice from the low-alcohol list was served in a petite martini-style glass and finished with a curled piece of lemon rind, while the golden elixir inside tasted punchy and floral.  

The British-meets-Mediterranean menu reads very simply and is built around seasonal ingredients. A crunchy crab salad saw half a gem lettuce dressed with a Marie Rose-esque sauce and delicate, albeit very little, crab meat. While a chunky piece of turbot with hollandaise and greens, confidently simple, delivered richness and decent seasoning. We finished with a comforting, dense slice of almond cake served with soft pears and a fat ball of clotted cream. 

The only snag? Expect to pay a sur charge for anything you eat here. Sure, we understand paying more for quality ingredients, but The Twenty Two’s prices feel alarmingly dear. The crab salad came in at £18, while the turbot cost an eye-watering £46, and while both were perfectly fine, we’d expect utterly flawless dishes for that price. What we would return in a heartbeat for, though, is another drink in that dining room. 

The Twenty Two is a hotel, all-day neighbourhood restaurant and private members’ club in Mayfair, and housed within an Edwardian Manor House. The 120-cover restaurant at The Twenty Two serves a menu of British classics with Mediterranean twists, with the kitchen overseen by executive chef Alan Christie, who previously worked at Michelin-starred Arbutus (now closed) and restaurant group Picture.  

The décor celebrates the colour blue with various shades used throughout the room to highlight the room’s opulent architecture and 19th century paneling. A cabochon limestone floor inlaid with black slate pays tribute to classic French interiors, complemented by a vintage Persian rug with tones of blue and gold. The space’s elegant proportions are teased out with bespoke chandeliers in cadets of hand blown blue glass, designed in collaboration with Tyson, a skilled British craftsman.  

The restaurant is open all day and serves breakfast, lunch, dinner and drinks. The breakfast menu features classic dishes with a modern twist, such as vegan full English with polenta and broccoli, eggs benedict served on a freshly-based muffin loaf and French toast with caramelized apple, sultanas, lemon thyme and crème fraiche.  

Lunch and dinner menus change seasonally and feature a variety of dishes inspired by the UK and Mediterranean. Examples of dishes might include Devon crab salad with cucumber, radish, and sea greens and loin of spring lamb with sheep’s ricotta, baby artichoke and tomato, while a selection of pastas include cacio e pepe and slow cooked beef pappardelle. Mains to share feature chargrilled grass-fed ribeye with Béarnaise, chips and salad, plus whole baked Cornish John Dory with Jersey royals and a green olive dressing. Desserts include floating islands of whipped lemon curd with vanilla custard and cheesecake with vanilla ice cream. 

The cocktail selection at The Twenty Two features a selection of sophisticated low ABV serves and alcoholic options, such as Smoke On The Water with pisco, Martini bianco, jalapeno cordial, and clarified lime. A highly experienced team of sommeliers have curated a varied wine list featuring a range of familiar and more unusual options, spanning new and old world grape varieties. 

A select number of tables for al fresco dining on North Audley Street are also available in the warmer months.