The Palomar

Siblings Leo and Zoe Paskin have opened two slick follow-ups (The Barbary and Evelyn’s Table) to their original West End smash hit, but The Palomar remains the most compelling. It is a thrilling taste of melting-pot Jerusalem transplanted to London’s Chinatown, its exotic foreignness totally at home among the windows of barbecued duck and bubble tea.

Solo diners and couples sit up front at the counter, and though tables for four can be accommodated in the back room, to miss out on the open kitchen action is to forego the soul of this extraordinary restaurant. Familiar Middle Eastern staples are refined and re-invented by a small troupe of “passionate” chefs who can also turn their hand to mixing a mean cocktail.

Order a portion of cake-like kubaneh bread while perusing the menu and save some of the accompanying tahini and tomato sauce for the delights to come:  the signature shashlik kebab offsets succulent minced beef and lamb with pistachios and pine nuts, while tender Josper-grilled chicken sits atop a bed of black rice hiding raisins and pomegranate seeds.

It’s not all so richly savoury, though. Salads such as the house fattoush (tomatoes, cucumber and sumac) showcase ingredients at peak freshness and ripeness, while a malabi syrup pudding is remarkable for the clear hibiscus flavours shining through the sweetness. This is “skillful and delicate cooking”, notes a fan, “but it still feels fun and vibrant”.  

Bookings, alas, are only taken for the less atmospheric back room or for the first seats at the bar when doors open, but with the Paskins’ pub and cocktail bar, The Blue Posts, a few steps away, at least there’s now somewhere comfortable to go and wait.

The Palomar is a true London institution and arguably still one of the best middle eastern restaurants in the capital. Dedicated chefs turn out dishes inspired by Spanish, North Africa and the Levant. The best seat in the house is one of the 16 at the counter, where you can watch the magic happen up close. For a more refined dining experience, however, there is also a 40-cover dining room in the back.

Kick things off with an exciting house cocktail like the Soho kiss, a mix of whiskey, tequila, lillet rouge, sumac, lime, orange and soda, and some delicious snacks from the 'rip and dip' section of the menu. These handmade pitas, green olive labneh with za'atar and caramelised pistachios and even lamb brisket with white bean M'sabacha, harissa and pickled egg. Seafood at The Palomar is a must, with options like Metugan bream with Israeli kimchi and green harissa, or Yemeni crab labneh with herb salad, pickled carrots and amba yoghurt. Those seeking meat won't be disappointed either, with options like beef tartare with harissa aioli, shifka, sunflower seeds and mustard herbs or Persian lemon chicken with spicy chickpeas, cured lemon, aubergine and mint. 

From the 'field and garden', you'll see highly affordable vegetarian dishes like radicchio with saffron aioli and truffle oil or slow-cooked cabbage with Jerusalem artichoke and tahini puree, dates and macadamia. To finish, diners can enjoy some exotic treats like malabi with fruit coulis, coconut and roasted pecans or a sumac and lemon tart with orange blossom mousse. There is a pleasing mix of old and new world wines, including some bottles from the middle East. Those who prefer beer should try the Maccabee lager, which comes from Israel. If you're looking for a drink before or after, head to The Blue Posts, which is the group's pub.