The name refers to Georgian forerunners of today’s public houses, where subsidised coffee was sold instead of gin and porter as a previous Nanny State attempted to wean the populace off the demon drink. Fast-forward three centuries and the number of coffees sold is heavily outnumbered by the punters’ thirst for honestly priced ales and ciders on tap: try a pint from Brodies’ Leytonstone microbrewery for size – perhaps robust Polska (6.6% abv), citrusy Amarilla, Sunshine, English Best or Old Ardour from a Camra-accredited offer. The brass bedpans around the place are part of a junk-shop bonanza that also embraces stuffed animal heads, brewery mirrors, musical instruments and WWI posters – the kind of jumble that passed as cutting edge before branding stylists took over the world of pub design.