Most Exciting Chef in the West?
of Thames Valley that is. No longer will I be able to drive through Goring without thinking about my very first meal on the evening of 21st July 2016. If my food was indicative of the normal standard, then a detour is justified to sample the chef's capabilities. The décor is fresh though still a 'work in progress' in one or two little areas, but the dining area is modern, mostly light, encased in this old but picturesque brick cloak. M of M has accommodation and pleasant garden area.
Having recently discovered the wonderful herb lovage used at Fera (and by me now that I grow it), I was soo pleased to see that it had a place on the menu with a guineafowl dish created by Nick, the chef, formerly of The Crown in Bray. Pretty Goring on Thames has been graced with the arrival of this experienced husband and wife team who at first glance have retained all their enthusiasm for their profession. A virtually faultless effort bore testament to these facts yesterday. What I ate could have been produced by any number of top Michelin starred chefs on 'a particularly good day'. The warm bread selection was excellent including onion bread cooked in beef dripping - normally I would shun that suety stuff, but with positive feedback coming from others around, I just had to try it. Surprisingly, I became an immediate convert. My crab cannelloni with grapefruit granita was superbly plated and executed with a taste to match. The green cannelloni was draped around brown crab meat with a surround of white meat dotted with the granita. Across the table, the duck terrine was apparently creating equal enjoyment and it looked as though it had been crafted to perfection for the sake of a posh cookbook. Trying to quell excitement, I waited for my guineafowl main which again was plated to a beautiful design and yet still the flavours matched the looks. Balanced with an excellent jus, lovage cream, crisp leaves of Roscoff onion and I think two discs of a light mousse of foie gras (if I am not mistaken), was undoubtedly the best guineafowl dish I have had anywhere - and I have sampled more than a few. Beef fillet was also good but served with an unusual accompaniment of spelt risotto which seemed to me and my other half an unlikely partner for beef which neither of us thought worked that well. Chips were as proper chips should be. Score could have been higher if the beef dish had a slightly improved coherence. Good wine added to a stunningly good experience for me that may just have shifted my favour. Next couple of visits should determine whether or not that proves to be the case.