The third location for The Ivy Asia - following sites in Manchester’s Spinningfields and London’s St Paul’s - finds its home in Chelsea, right next door to The Ivy Chelsea Garden (a sure-fire sign of the brand’s confidence in itself).
The vibe inside the jewel-toned dining room is certainly not subtle: staff are dressed in chinoiserie prints, baby pink cherry blossom covers half the ceiling and a life-size Samurai warrior awaits you in the gents, taking a leak at the urinals. This high-octane, occasionally gimmicky approach isn’t confined to just the decor - we spy neon blue cocktails at neighbouring tables, while across the room roasted duck is served inside an ornate duck-shaped vase.
Dining at The Ivy Asia is unapologetic restaurant theatre, which for the most part, is rather fun. Once you get past all the visual spectacle you arrive at an extensive selection of pan-Asian fare, perhaps not rooted in authenticity, but certainly well executed. Neighbouring tables of friends snapping endless selfies tell us people aren’t coming here for the food, but it is better than it needs to be.
From the small plates, we most enjoyed the popcorn shrimp: a generous helping of plump, fleshy fish slathered in a creamy sauce injected with just the right amount of tongue-tingling heat. Larger dishes also impress: miso black cod is sweet and flaky, boasting an almost caramel-like flavour, while Wagyu beef (cooked to preference) is paired with truffle and barbecue sauce, heightening the meat’s intensity. For pudding, warm doughnuts filled with passionfruit and coconut are a novel take on a classic childhood treat, while additions of popping candy and a creamy yoghurt dipping sauce add to the fun.
The restaurant’s heavy-handed, unspecified ‘Asia’ theme won’t be for everyone and we also found service to be a touch chaotic, but there is no denying that The Ivy Asia is a fun experience, ideal for birthday dinners or glamorous date nights. Impressively, the restaurant was packed to the rafters on our Monday evening visit, proving that London’s appetite for Instagram-friendly, immersive dining experiences is going nowhere fast.