The long trek up the skew-whiff staircase at this rickety Fitzrovia townhouse used to be rewarded with drinks in the raffish Red Bar at Bam-Bou. Now you’ll find the attic lounge bar of modern Vietnamese restaurant The House of Ho, and the decor – all bland woods and pear-green upholstery – is rather, well, ho-hum. Nevertheless, the cocktails are far from humdrum. Whisky fanciers should order Cho Lon Sour (Hibiki, Ardbeg, matcha tea, lemon and yuzu). Tequila, infused with kaffir lime leaves then bolstered with Czech herbal liqueur and lemongrass syrup, makes for a similarly interesting East-West Sour, while Ho La Da provides a tropical muddle of mango, coconut, pineapple and Bacardi. Service is courteous, and snacks of dumplings and spring rolls are fine with wines by the glass and Singha beer. But in such a confined space, banging house music is perhaps not the best garnish for a taste of high-end Vietnam.