The glass box of a building that houses The Dock could feel like a canteen, with modernist furniture accentuating the starkness of the bare, white, light-filled dining room. But the menu is cosier, with perfectly cooked fish and chips the mainstay. Deep-fried cod, plaice or haddock is available to take away, but eat in and you'll find a surprisingly ambitious menu that might run from salmon gravlax with squid-ink aïoli to peppered tuna with roasted vegetables, sweetcorn purée and mixed cress or salted cod fillet with tomato, potato and dill butter sauce – all with elaborate garnishes. Steaks feed the carnivores, desserts are less frou-frou (brownies, sorbets etc) and the wine list has plenty of choice, but not much below £20. In the evenings candles are lit on the tables, successfully softening the atmosphere.