On the ground floor of the recently opened art’otel Hoxton, you’ll find The Brush Grand Cafe: a modern take on the classic French bistro that boasts the kind of art deco twist you’d expect from such a group. From its 40-metre graffiti mural to the large bronze sculpture that gives the cafe its name, The Brush is clearly not afraid to stand out.
We’re engulfed by an expansive dining room that curves with the hotel’s doughnut-esque design, an open kitchen at its heart. Floor-to-ceiling windows fill the room with a welcome brightness that just brings the space to life, highlighting the jovial bursts of colour throughout the otherwise dark decor.
From start to finish, there’s an over-the-top theatricality to our evening, drawing us in from the very first drink. A chartreuse ‘Les Fleurs du Mal’ cocktail comes poured from a four-tapped fountain, dissolving over a cube of sugar into each glass. The playfully titled ‘50 Shades of Champagne’ lives up to its name, showcasing several forms of the fizz from a cordial liqueur to a frothing dome of bubbles.
Dishes have a pleasing geometry that falls in line with the art deco restaurant; a ring of wispy Iberico ham slices; a wedge of Basque cheesecake; a perfect circle of steak tartare, all framed on pristine white, embossed bistro plates. The star of the evening, however, comes in the form of a monkfish chop, fresh off the Josper grill and bathed in a delicate clam velouté.
Service aims to be old-school, in a heavily attentive fashion that ensures you’re never left wanting. Still in the early stages of opening, staff were still finding their rhythm, but there's an air of relaxation as they guide us through the menus and shower us with recommendations.
In line with the bold, theatrical ambitions of the art’otel, The Brush Grand Cafe brings a playful vibrancy to classic bistro dining, offering a refreshing taste of the 21st century.