It’s fitting that the entrance to this all-day restaurant within the new Boulevard Theatre is itself theatrical, a pretty glass walkway overlooking the neon-lit Walker’s Court, the former alley of sex shops, now re-developed and, as with so much of Soho, its seediness airbrushed away.
Inside is a sleek and moody bar area with matte gold and navy blue accents, while the entire restaurant is enveloped in warm pink tones, for a pop of modern chic. There are hints of green and theatre-inspired prints dotted about, while the plush colour palette gives off a private boudoir vibe. A couple on the next table to us had an impromptu photoshoot, which speaks volumes about the coolness of the decor.
We started with the mushroom arancini and butternut tart, which arrived fairly promptly and were delivered by staff who stayed friendly despite the rush of the pace to get people fed before the performance began. The butternut squash was prettily plated on a cushion of puff pastry, but the real winner was the arancini oozing with creamy Taleggio cheese on a soft base of onion purée, perfect to share.
For mains, the Rhug Estate lamb medallions outshone a well-executed, if fairly predictable, sea trout. The lamb was subtly complemented by a sweet apricot stuffing, honey-carrot purée and a crisp potato terrine and also featured a bed of cavolo nero and caramelised carrots – a good balance of flavours.
To finish, the meringue topped with crème fraiche and a rather nicely made plum compote was a rich, but refreshing way to round off the meal. This was, on the whole, a satisfying dinner experience. The atmosphere was frenetic with the energy of the pre-show crowd, filled, but not heaving, with plenty of tables, and the chatter of excitement for food and entertainment. Boulevard restaurant is a good option for theatre-goers looking for a reasonably priced meal before the curtain goes up.