The original Blue Stoops pub was said to be ‘so old no one knew of its beginning.’ Now, centuries later, this historic boozer is back, with an electric blue facade that won’t be forgotten in a hurry.
London’s ever-evolving gastropub scene has leaned heavily toward more refined, more restaurant-like experiences, sometimes erasing the heart and soul of a local boozer. But not here - the Blue Stoops is the life of the party, where boisterous patrons gather around the bar, sipping on hand-pulled pale ales and bitters drawn from swan-neck taps.
Chequered floor tiles, leather banquettes, and endless wood panelling create a warm, laid-back atmosphere which spills into the curtained-off dining room. Tables are set just slightly too close for comfort, but that only adds to the lively energy, as skilful staff seamlessly weave past with steaming plates. Retro Allsopp & Son’s posters dot the walls, while their iconic raised-hand logo, is proudly displayed around the venue: lining the front of the bar, hanging above the entrance, even taking centre stage on a branded mirror on the back wall, which is flanked by dish of the day chalkboards.
Our advice - arrive hungry. The menu is packed with unapologetic, assertive pub grub, like a slice of crusty bread slathered in an intense anchovy pate. Whilst it could easily be too much, the tactical addition of pickled shallot rings brings much-needed acidity, cutting through the richness with a razor-sharp precision. Elsewhere, an oven-baked scallop arrives in a half shell, drowning in chive butter. It’s perhaps lacking in seasoning, relying on a hefty squeeze of lemon to add that extra dimension.
At the pass is Lorcan Spiteri (the man behind Caravel), whose deft touch elevates the pub’s British classics. There’s a daily changing menu, with early standouts already carving a place for themselves as staples. One such dish is the pork chop; tenderly cooked and sporting a ridge of perfectly rendered fat. A beef and ale pie is hearty and generously peppered, stuffed to the brim under a thin-pastry crust. The middle is a tad underdone, whilst edges are overly-crisp, but these are the finest of details and it's hard to care too much when the rest is so good.
Even the desserts hit the mark. Caramelised apples and pears are topped with a nutty crumble and vanilla-speckled ice cream that melts into a deliciously messy pool. It’s the sort of proper dessert that pushes fine dining far from mind.
The Blue Stoops isn’t your cheapest pub. Mains float around the £25 mark, before sides, but it's some seriously good grub, bringing the traditional pub experience back to life - just with a bit more flair.