The Birnam at Gleneagles

Being offered the best seat in the house often feels like a farce when faced with identical cloth-clad tables, but landing the jackpot at The Birnam’s means a fireside sofa in the foliage draped garden room. Here you’re afforded excellent people watching and a front row seat to enjoy the crackle of real logs sparking in the grate.

The properly charming staff kick things off with drinks, but sadly all the goodwill in the world can’t make up for a mistakenly chilled bottle of red and an orange juice masquerading as a mocktail. Moving swiftly on, and the starters are a pleasant jumble of international favourites ranging from crisp arancini spiked with the flavours of cacio e pepe to fiercely hot garlic and chilli prawns that could perhaps be a little too liberal on the spice for some.

When it comes to the steak a pair of heavy hands doesn’t feel like such a bad thing though. There’s rendered fat which is only achieved through a firm meeting with the pan, and the golden, salty crust on the meat takes a good amount of pressure to get it right. The results are perfect - that hallowed blush-pink centre and crunchy, intensely flavoured edges.

This is dining at Gleneagles and as such, nothing is left unadorned. Mash comes mixed through with a punch of taleggio and the hum of truffle, while broccoli’s chargrilled and all the better for it. The sides and sauces are generously portioned and perfectly made too. A bone marrow gravy intensifies all those beefy flavours, while the béarnaise is rich and buttery with a decent kick of tarragon.

Scraping our plate of dessert – a clever lemon sorbet and whipped mascarpone combo – we find ourselves wondering what keeps this place buzzing every evening. And the answer is obvious, it’s the combination of the plush surrounds, stellar service and some very, very good steak.

The Birnam at Gleneagles is a steakhouse with a feminine touch. Entering the main space, you’ll notice the open kitchen towards the back and the large central bar. Here, cosy tables coast the edges, while through to the left the real magic happens. Out in the garden room there’s a real fire, squashy sofas and an abundance of pretty, draped foliage.

Drinks tick off most of the mainstays, with decent wines, beers, spirits, and softs all accounted for. Thanks to the nature of the clientele, you’ll find reasonable – yet carefully selected – bottles at one end that run up through the mid-range and into the heady heights of luxury at the other.

Wonderful staff ensure everyone’s looked after with precision hospitality and the kitchen team turn out an all-day menu of please-all plates. Snacks include tomato and black garlic focaccia as well as vegetable fritto with a selection of dips. Starters span classics like a failsafe Caesar salad through to a seabass carpaccio with an artichoke salad and butter vinaigrette.

The main event – and the reason you’re likely to be here – is the steak. Large cuts are chalked up on the board and perfect for sharing. Think Tomahawk, Porterhouse or Sirloin on the bone. Expertly cooked on the grill, these come with your choice of sauces which include salsa verde, peppercorn or red wine, mushroom, and truffle. Completely the set are sides which include no fewer than four types of potato as well as interesting veggies and salads. For those who aren’t steak fans, there’s also a generous selection of alternatives. Think slow roasted aubergine with spiced tomatoes, toasted rice and seeds or a whole turbot to share at the table.

Desserts are short and sweet but finish things off perfectly with options such as a pecan pie or a glass of lemon sorbet crowned with a mascarpone mousse.