The entire village of Downham is owned by Lord and Lady Clitheroe, who don’t even allow their residents TV aerials – although they seem to have given a free hand to the Neve family, the new owners of the Assheton Arms. What was a tatty old local now sports open fires and comfortable snugs, with friendly staff on hand to greet and advise about the fish-friendly menu – Chris Neve was a Grimsby trawlerman and knows a thing or two about seafood. A series of ‘little plates’ might include haddock goujons with saffron and chilli mayo or mini fishcakes with tartare sauce, while mains could offer roast monkfish with baby leeks, brown shrimps and cider sauce or hake with spicy sausage, gnocchi, broccoli and chilli. Food is central here, but you can still wander in for a pint of Timothy Taylor and a sandwich while you read the papers in the snug.