Tender

Niall Keating’s arrival at the glorious Stock Exchange Hotel has caused a ripple of excitement in the Manchester dining scene. The chef held two Michelin stars at Whatley Manor - could he bring a sprinkle of this star power to Manchester's opulent new hotel?

Owned by Gary Neville and Ryan Giggs, The Stock Exchange exudes a kind of old school masculine charm; you can imagine suited and booted pundits sitting down to enjoy a steak dinner in this Manchester oasis after a busy day at Old Trafford. The dining room is particularly impressive - you’ll likely spend your first few minutes here gazing up at the ornate domed ceiling. Meanwhile, a singer-guitarist duo bop out a pleasant, Radio 2-friendly soundtrack - a nice change of pace from your usual Spotify-generated background noise.

The menu pulls you in and plays with your heartstrings, providing a kind of greatest hits of nostalgic brasserie goodies with enough twists to keep things interesting.

We struggled to choose from the great selection of starters. Our confit salmon, though faultless in cooking, could have gone a little harder with its accompanying flavours. You’d expect a dish with wasabi mayonnaise and nam jim dressing to bring punch, but it was all rather delicate. On the other end of the spectrum, the pot roast cauliflower with yeast, pomegranate and sesame had everything dialed up to 11. The rich sauce was perfect for mopping up with the flawless, voluminous sourdough we ordered for nibbling.

Our mains promised luxury, with a poached ballotine of dover soul concealing a centre of scallop mousse. The rib of beef, buttressed with a whole bulb of perfectly cooked garlic and a wobbly medallion of bone marrow, was almost disconcertingly tender in texture. Sadly, both dishes suffered slightly from a heavy salting hand, and we found ourselves reaching for the water.

Desserts were playful takes on classic brasserie puds. Our favourite was a passionfruit and coconut trifle, with decadently creamy layers given zingy reprieve from the tart passionfruit. We will have eternal FOMO at not opting for jam cinnaroll with creme anglaise, but there’s always next time.

If you’re staying for a nightcap, head into the depths of the hotel and find the wonderful Sterling bar - an alluring speakeasy with a perfectly-pitched menu of classics and new inventions.

Tender is the flagship restaurant at Manchester's Stock Exchange Hotel, serving modern brasserie-style food led by two Michelin-starred chef Niall Keating, formerly of Whatley Manor. As one of the youngest chefs to ever win two Michelin stars in the UK, with restaurants such as Restaurant Sat Bains, Benu, and Kong Hans Kaelder on his CV, Keating's arrival in Manchester brings undoubted star power to the city's dining scene. 

Tender takes up residence in the hotel's main dining space - an imposing room with a towering domed ceiling, marble columns and pastel green arched windows. Keating and his team understand that a meal out isn't just about eating, but is about the experience that you're provided with, an approach that is evident in the restaurant’s opulent old-world ambience, curated playlists as you enter the space, and weekly live music. Tender offers a space to celebrate a special occasion with loved ones, enjoy a romantic evening for two, or spend time enjoying the warmth and charm of the restaurant.

The restaurant offers a brasserie menu from Wednesday to Saturday switching to a Sunday menu at the end of the weekend. Diners will also be able to opt for the Chef's lunch or dinner - Tender's equivalent to a tasting menu, which is served to the whole table. Tender’s menu is packed with warm, comforting classics - a chorizo risotto or lobster roll to start, followed by roast halibut in brown butter sauce or spit roast chicken shared by the table, or an all-the-trimmings feast on Sunday lunch. 

For a special occasion, Tender offers private dining spaces for up to 12 people, as well as a special chef’s dinner menu, a highlight reel of Keating’s favourite inventive comfort dishes (think confit salmon with wasabi mayonnaise or pot roast cauliflower with sesame and pomegranate) served family-style at a competitive £115 per person. 

Tender also looks after breakfast for the hotel and serves it with typical style. Dishes on the breakfast menu include a buttermilk fried chicken croissant, a traditional English breakfast, and a waffle or French toast with a variety of toppings.