Chances are, you’ve probably seen birria tacos on social media. The modern descendant of a traditional goat stew from Jalisco, these cheesy beef tacos have gone viral on a global scale. Yet, despite their popularity, there actually aren’t many birria spots in London. Thankfully, we heard that Taca Tacos had gone from pop-up to permanent, giving us the perfect excuse to get a taste.
As we strolled through Deptford Market Yard, the aromas from Taca quickened our pace. By the time we arrived, we were practically floating on the scent like a cartoon. After a quick chat with the lovely kitchen team, we settled in with some Jarritos mandarin sodas and awaited the feast.
The tacos cost around a fiver each, so we elected to try as many as we could. The chicken pibil was an instant classic, its tender meat spiked with plenty of chilli and a twang of orange, topped with pink onions and a crescent of fresh avocado. The green chile pork, meanwhile, offered a totally differently delicious ensemble, the slow-cooked pork heaped with zingy tomatillo. Even the simplest taco of all, black beans with queso fresco and pico de gallo, shined thanks to thorough seasoning, fresh ingredients and soft tortillas. Our final non-birria taco - Baja fish - was gloriously flakey, balanced by a smooth jalapeno crema and tangy slaw.
The birria, however, is a wholly different experience. The beef itself had been slow-cooked for around six hours, giving it a gloriously soft and rich texture. The tortillas had been dunked in the cooking liquid, then slapped on the griddle to crisp up. Finally, the beef and cheese are piled in with fresh onion and coriander. This, when plunged into the spicy gravy, is an over-the-top out-of-body experience.
If you didn’t have a reason to go to Deptford, you most certainly do now. Just don’t wear white or take a first date - it gets messy.