Sushi on Jones

Sushi on Jones’s rapid-fire omakase sushi has been a huge hit in NYC, landing neatly in the venn diagram overlap between luxe-dining and speedy lunch solutions. Whilst traditional omakase experiences are often pricey, drawn-out occasions, Sushi on Jones packs 12 handmade sushi courses into just 45 minutes. It’s a smart idea, but does it cut the mustard?

King’s Cross isn’t exactly business lunch central, but Sushi on Jones is pretty well placed for those who want a quick bite before they jump on a Eurostar. Admittedly the entrance could be more clearly signposted, but take a gamble on a promising-looking doorway (and Google Maps) and you’ll find the eight-seat wooden counter overlooking Goods Way. Despite being set up for efficiency, it’s still a cosy and charming space, and you feel very secluded from the rest of Coal Drops Yard.

We had wondered whether the whole experience might feel like a rush, but it’s very well-paced. Two chefs behind the counter create ingenious little bites in tandem, using fantastic fresh fish and seafood that changes day-to-day, from Scottish salmon and fatty tuna to spot prawn and scallop. Omakase can feel a little quiet and reverential, but Sushi on Jones is much more relaxed, with the chefs only too happy to chat as they craft.

Highlights include a gorgeous piece of blow torched mackerel, luxurious, creamy wild spot prawn, and scallop on crispy rice, brushed liberally in sweet nikiri. If there’s one thing Sushi on Jones lacks compared to London’s big-budget omakase counters is perhaps a touch of subtlety; even from the first bite the flavours are bold - perhaps not surprising given the time constraints. The drinks offering is compact but excellent - we recommend the house Tamanohikari sake as an easy sip, but we’d love to see some of the cocktails that Sushi on Jones NYC has on the menu. This diminutive counter has a lot going for it and, were it a little better known and signposted, we suspect it’d be a huge hit.

Housed in the brand new Goods Way development, Sushi on Jones has made its way across the pond to bring London a taste of the Japanese dining concept that has been satisfying New Yorkers since it opened its first al fresco omakase bar in the Big Apple in 2016. Sushi on Jones promises an accessible approach to authentic Japanese dining based around the traditional concept of omakase, whereby chefs devise a meal based around their guests’ preferences.

Although the dishes are composed of the finest quality cuts of fish and wagyu sourced directly from Japan, the menu still works out at an affordable £44 for a 12-piece tasting selection. Alongside premium ingredients which include uni, toro, botan, shrimp and wagyu, the restaurant also offers a variety of Sushi on Jones signature staples to be taken away to eat at home or work.

Diners in the restaurant are allocated a 45-minute slot at the counter where they can interact directly with the team of omakase-trained chefs to create an entirely bespoke dining experience based around their personal palates and appetites. Drawing influence from the no-frills sushi counters of Japan, the restaurant aims to offer an authentic experience in a relaxed and informal environment.

If the omakase menu doesn’t appeal, the à la carte also offers some tempting alternatives. Meat-lovers will love the Big Mac – layers of wagyu A5 ribeye with sea urchin, while those sticking to seafood can choose from an extensive selection of nigiri including yellowtail, king salmon, squid, bluefin tuna, sweet shrimp and more.

The drinks list has been curated by beverage director and certified saké sommelier Bill Wood. Along with sakés, it includes a selection of aromatic teas, craft beers, fine wines and Japanese whisky. From the cocktail list, the signature Saké Jones sees rice wine blended with pomelo juice and Japanese cucumber for a refreshing and summery sip.

Located on the first floor of the new food, bar and live music venue in Kings Cross, Sushi on Jones is a convenient spot for a pre-concert meal with friends or a quick working lunch with colleagues.