Singapulah

Shaftesbury Avenue is hardly short of visitors – every inch of this central London thoroughfare is crammed with theatregoers and hungry diners. Add in the proximity to Chinatown and that makes it the perfect home for London’s latest trendy restaurant, Singapulah, which has a queue coming out of the door when we arrive. 

Here, the experience is about more than just the food: Singapulah is a full immersive Singaporean experience with its downstairs retro ‘mama shop’ and restaurant rolled into one neat package. Imagine a 70s supermarket, complete with cash register and all, with a hidden dining room behind its shelves. Yet, by the time we reach the second floor, it feels as if it's run out of steam. The theme dwindles out, retaining the neutral interior of pastel crockery lighting and vibrant foliage, but without as much of the charm. 

Our booth looks out over Chinatown, vibrant red and gold lanterns visible in the distance and almost as bright and colourful as the plates of food that arrive at our table. A Singapore laksa comes first, bringing with it a heady aroma of coconut, chilli and coriander. The use of short silver pin noodles meaning chopsticks aren’t necessary and allows us to easily slurp it down with just a spoon. Underseasoned tofu and prawns mean that the broth is doing most of the heavy lifting, but it’s good nonetheless. 

Dishes here arrive as and when they’re ready, although this doesn’t feel intentional (as we still haven’t had our drinks either). Golden crab bao are sweet and crispy with a ginger and chilli kick, but the crab gets lost in the underfilled bun and lacks any sauce for dipping. A Singapulah Bak Chor Mee, meanwhile, offers delightful elements from the beefy braised mushrooms and crispy pork lardons. 

Durian ice cream is an interesting way to end the meal. A popular southeast Asian fruit known for its pungent smell and flavouring may sound like a rather bizarre choice for ice cream, and it is, offering a lingering onion taste amongst the sweet dessert that we’re not sure we’d order again. 

It feels as if Singapulah is still finding its footing, as would be expected just a few weeks after opening. But this unique spot has plenty of potential and we’re excited to see what it does next.  

Ellen Chew brings an authentic taste of Malaysia and Singapore to Chinatown's Shaftesbury Avenue in London. Singapulah is a 100-cover site spread across three floors, designed to transport diners back to the 1970s. Keep an eye out for its impressive chandeliers made from crockery, and Peranakan-style tiles which spread across both the floors and the walls. 

On the food front, expect both familiar flavours and more unorthodox dishes. Chew has crafted the menu in collaboration with various Singaporean food manufacturers, and it rotates every six months. Expect a combination of all the aromas, cultures, flavours, and textures Singapore has to offer.  

You can expect everything from Bak Chor Mee, a spicy, minced pork noodle dish, or Dodo chilli fishballs, to Sambal chilli from Kwong Cheong Thye. There is a huge selection of dim sum on offer, whether you fancy a chilli crab bao or a truffle and mushroom Siew Mai. Or, perhaps you want to try Kueh Pie Tee, crispy pastry shells filled with prawns, sliced vegetables and spicy, shredded Chinese turnips. For something more classic, turn your head to the Singapore laksa made with silver pin noodles.

If you're in the mood for something sweet, there are plenty of interesting Udders' ice cream flavours to choose from. You could try Mao Shan Wang Durian or Pulut Hitam, a black rice pudding made with coconut milk. You could also opt for a coconutty, custardy Kueh Salat cake.

Aside from the food, the cocktail menu has been carefully curated by The Orientalist Spirits, distilling Southeast Asian flavours such as Ondeh Ondeh, Bandung and Rojak into drink form. You can also get your hands on Singapulah's signature coconut shake, Singaporean kopi which is brewed from Robusta coffee beans, as well as some heritage drinks such as Chrysanthemum, Lychee and Grass Jelly.