Long before Soho became the synonymous with all things Chinese, Limehouse was the hotbed of non-westernised regional cuisine in the capital – and it’s making a bit of a comeback with the arrival of Shanshuijian. Folksy pictures on mustard-coloured walls, bare tables with inlaid hotplates and a decent contingent of Chinese customers set the scene, while the menu ventures deep into the gastronomic heartlands of Szechuan and China’s north-eastern provinces. Shanshuijian apparently translates as ‘lamb hotpot’, a dish that appears on the menu alongside the likes of jellyfish with black vinegar, mixed chicken gizzards with chilli and black beans sauce or pork belly with pickled vegetables. Seafood is also represented by the likes of king prawns braised in red oil or dry-fried squid with leeks, and there are side orders of Beijing-style, fried bean-paste noodles too.