It’s a mystery as to why this ever lost a Michelin star. The menu is concise and well composed; dishes have been so well thought out and balanced in every respect……chicken wings and Morteau sausage burst with robust flavour; quail breasts with earthy mushroom risotto set off with a crispy puffed rice topping is divinity on a plate. I had a plateful of deliciousness which was also a visual treat - one of the best starters I have had anywhere, so much so that we revisited the same week.
We returned again last week, so in our three visits, for main course we had turbot twice, pig thrice and venison once. Star main for me was the turbot (better than a similarly styled Dover sole dish I had in Le Manoir on Valentine’s Day). It was a turbot dish to mourn as soon as it had gone, and so sublime that it will stay in my memory. Suckling pig was very good, but for a masterclass in suckling pig, it is necessary to leave our shores and head for Lisbon, where the chef at Belcanto has created the most sensational piggy my husband and I have ever tasted – perhaps an unfair comparison with a 2* but for me, quail and turbot were worthy of 2* Michelin award let alone 1*. Having been so lucky to dine in top restaurants all over London and some of Western Europe for decades, I am no longer wowed by pomp and ceremony. If you want the razzamatazz, then don’t go here. Do go if you appreciate excellent food, served by a very knowledgeable, young team who are generous on smiles and whose attentions are focused on the diner, within a semi-formal but relaxed setting. Passion comes through in the cooking and all staff seem to care about what they do and how they do it. I had a minor issue, which was more of a preference rather than a fault, and without hesitation, this was adjusted to my liking. Wines are nearly always good as are the recommendations.