Rondo

Hotel restaurants can get a bad rep, but the Hoxton group seem to be doing their very best to shake free of their shackles. First there was Seabird at the Southwark Hoxton, and now Rondo has replaced Hubbard and Bell at the Holborn branch.

The atmosphere in Rondo is lively and warm, with interiors kitted out in tonal neutrals, accented by feature lighting and rich wooden furniture. There’s almost a hunting lodge vibe at play, which ties in with the British-leaning menu dreamed up by Chris Gillard. Chris’ reputation precedes him, as he comes with 15 years’ experience at St John’s. Bringing a big name with you can be a double-edged sword though, with pre-conceptions a natural side-product of a successful CV.

Other big names heading up the project include William Lander, co-owner of Quality Chop House, Portland, and Clipstone who helped shape the wine list which champions exciting lesser-known European winemakers.

There’s particular attention paid to seasonal ingredients, with the menu a hearty mix of classics reinvented. Sharing small plates to start brought salt pollock tempura bites with a rich rouille dip, only slightly tempered by a slightly oily finish. Otherwise crisp exterior and salt fish brings good nostalgia waves of fish shop dreams. More comfort food came under the guise of retro cheese straws and rich, fatty rillettes made with both pork and duck for ultimate indulgence. Our mains included a grey mullet dish which lacked a crispy skin but otherwise was enhanced by sweet tomatoes and fragrant fennel for a satisfyingly Mediterranean feel, accompanied by savoury aioli.

Sweets – as they often are – were a highlight. A chocolate mousse cake was both airy and intensely flavoured with a generous dollop of cream that we would happily add to our regular rota of puds.

While this isn’t perfect food, perhaps it doesn’t have to be. It’s comforting in in its familiarity without straying into the territory of boring. And in an area of London which hasn’t always benefitted from the best restaurants, this is definitely a safe bet with super-friendly service to boot.

Rondo (the site which used to house Hubbard and Bell) is the restaurant found at the Holborn Hoxton hotel, an eatery which champions seasonal British produce. This space is the brainchild of a couple of big names on the hospitality circuit - Chris Gillard and William Lander. Gillard spent 15 years at St John’s where his appreciation for using unusual ingredients was fostered, while Lander co-owns hospitality big hitters, Quality Chop House, Portland, and Clipstone.

Seating choices in the space include cosy banquette benches, smaller wooden tables and high bar stool. This is all set against the backdrop of the restaurant’s wine wall, where guests are able to take bottles away post-dining should they wish thanks to a range being served on-tap. Particular attention has been paid to listing interesting European wines and these sit in conjunction with a well-rounded cocktails list.

Staff are enthusiastic and knowledgeable, so well able to guide guests through the menus – which span breakfast through to late-night snacks. Breakfast brings pasties and granola alongside heartier serves like nduja scrambled eggs or a Full English. At lunch or dinner time, hero dishes include a sharing pie for two, with a rabbit and bacon filling, as well as a whole baked lemon sole with capers, croutons and a brown butter. Desserts are firmly in the classics camp with tried and tested favourites all jostling for top spot when it comes to diners’ choice award. There’s a strawberry sherry trifle for full on comfort factor feels alongside an apple tarte tatin and peaches and raspberries topped with a mango sorbet. Those without a sweet tooth can treat themselves to a Neal’s Yard Baron Bigod.

For the quality of dishes and the area of London Rondo finds itself in, prices are around average. Guests will be looking at starters and sharing plates pitched at the £2-10 mark, while mains cost between £14 – 22.