Rita's Soho

Gabriel Pryce and Missy Flynn’s brainchild has graduated, after pupating as a Dalston bodega for nearly a decade. And, despite the culinary cacophony of Soho, Rita’s has well and truly made a name for itself. We finally managed to snag a table, which wasn’t easy, as the dinky diner’s 34 seats are almost always occupied.

Since Rita’s is named after the signature cocktail, we started with the house margaritas. Little did we know, the punchy elegance of the cocktail would set the tone of the meal. Case in point: the gildas. Traditionally, a gilda is a Basque pintxo, comprised of an olive, pickle, anchovy and chilli, skewered on a cocktail stick. Here, the olive smuggled in a tang of blue cheese, while the jalapeno’s heat was supercharged by a pool of chilli oil. As the friendly staff cleared the plates, they smiled knowingly at our obsession with the simple snack.

Saltfish taquitos arrived all guns blazing, their crisp shells laden with spicy peanut oil. Beside them, clams bathed in a sauce enriched by chipotle and black beer. Both were excellent, pushing salt and chilli levels that incite heavy drinking. Having thoroughly mopped the clam bowl with Idaho scones, we braced ourselves for more heat from the mains.

The fiery flavours, however, were soon succeeded by more complex combinations. A sugar pit pork chop was masterfully partnered with grilled loquat (a distant cousin of the kumquat), elevating the classic dish to new, global heights. Succulent five-spice lamb, meanwhile, was balanced by dandelion and a delicate, yet mouth-numbing Szechuan vinaigrette. Considering the vast difference between courses, it was a miracle the bottle of Sicilian white we ordered didn’t clash.

We had two thoughts as we left Rita’s. Firstly, aren’t gildas named after that Rita Hayworth film, making for some bizarrely subtle wordplay? And secondly, how soon can we snag another table?

Restaurateurs Gabriel Pryce and Missy Flynn first opened American restaurant Rita’s as a pop up in Dalston 10 years ago. Now, the restaurant has found a permanent home in Soho, serving a menu that is inspired by the pair's travels across the Americas.

Found on Soho’s bustling Lexington Street, Rita’s is housed inside a Grade-II listed building and the dining room is a love letter to Old Americana, featuring rustic Mexican tiles, booths that nod to classic US diners and a dedicated bar. Window seats allow diners to partake in a spot of people watching (always a fun activity in Soho), while at the back of the restaurant, you can find an enclosed garden primed for alfresco dining, complete with stone tiling and lush green and pink plants.

Rita’s menu is a seasonally changing offering which makes use of produce from trusted local suppliers (despite the American theming, much of the produce here is sourced within the UK). The offering lends itself well to sharing and features a mixture of small and large plates: think smaller dishes such as jalapeno popper gildas, hot bean devilled eggs and barbecued beef tartare with garlic, raw vegetables and herbs, followed by more substantial offerings of grilled sugar pit pork collar, whole fish a la plancha and a steak dinner for two served with all of the trimmings.

To round off your meal, tuck into all-American puddings such as house-made key lime pie. Drinks-wise, the wine list focuses on low-intervention varieties made by producers who prioritise sustainable farming - suppliers include Dynamic Wines, Ancestral Wines and Modal Wines. Cocktails are on hand too, drawing influence from Mexico and North America. The list contains a few novel twists on classic sips, including the fresh start, Rita’s new signature Margarita, which is made with Tapatio tequila infused with sansho pepper.